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Raco de les Espadelles

International > Europe > Spain > Catalonia > Margalef

Description

The eye of every first-time visitor to Margalef is instantly drawn to the striking orange cliffband that towers above the crags of the valley below. This is Raco de les Espadelles, and its one of the best cliffs in the region. The rock is excellent, covered in beautiful colored streaks, and featuring some of the best tufa climbing at Margalef. There are over 50 routes here, ranging from 5.10 to 5.14c, with several open projects and potential for many more.

Must do routes here include Perepunyetes, 5.10+, a juggy near-vertical wall, Draculin, 5.12a, a sustained pocket route, Malasombra, 5.13a, a gently overhanging pocket line, and Transilvania, 5.13b, considered the best 8a at Margalef.

The cliff faces South-Southwest, and therefore receives sun most of the day. There are five or six routes at the far left end that begin from a grove of tall tress & receive a good bit of shade. The cliff undulates quite a bit, and has some steep overhangs, so you may be able to find pockets of shade at certain times.

Getting There

This crag is easy to see but harder to reach. Head Northeast out of Margalef on the T713 for about 1.5 Km. Turn right onto a paved road signed for "Embassement", passing under large power lines. Follow the paved road around the first hairpin, to a set of colorful dumpsters ~50 yds beyond. Turn left onto a good dirt road at the dumpsters. This road is very steep in spots, but generally good, & no problem for passenger cars in normal conditions. Wind up the road for what seems like too long, until the road gains a big plateau at a left hairpin turn. Park at the pullout at this hairpin. There is an abandoned stone shack ~50 yds South of the parking lot.

Follow a good trail South, past the shack, to a low-angle slab. Downclimb the slab (fixed rope & metal rungs), then turn left (East) & follow the trail a short bit to another short downclimb. Continue a few yards thru trees to the cliff.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
No M'agradaria Ser Martell
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
La hormiga atomica
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Ni pa ti
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Perepunyetes
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
Unknown Route #6
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Guirlache
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Setareh
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Roig Heffner
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Sudoku
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Draculin
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
El Gordinflón
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Per Molts Anys
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Maligna
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
La Gomorra
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 1
No m´Agradaria Ser Martell
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
La Xikipandi
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
El Sistema
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 1
Ximpleta
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
La Drecera
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
Beta de Boira
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Unknown route #46
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
Punto de Gravedad Cero
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Tastavins
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Memoria Histerica
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Malasombra
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 2
Transilvania
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Amb Pal no Dona Pal
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Franja de Ponent
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
De Benicarió, Mierdas!
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Que Pasa Neng?
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
Turmellosi
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Maria, la bruixeta bona
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
No M'agradaria Ser Martell
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
La hormiga atomica
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ni pa ti
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Perepunyetes
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Unknown Route #6
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Guirlache
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Setareh
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Roig Heffner
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Sudoku
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Draculin
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
El Gordinflón
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Per Molts Anys
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Maligna
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
La Gomorra
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
No m´Agradaria Ser Martell
 1
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
La Xikipandi
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
El Sistema
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Ximpleta
 1
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
La Drecera
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Beta de Boira
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Unknown route #46
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Punto de Gravedad Cero
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Tastavins
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Memoria Histerica
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Malasombra
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Transilvania
 2
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Amb Pal no Dona Pal
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Franja de Ponent
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
De Benicarió, Mierdas!
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Que Pasa Neng?
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Turmellosi
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Maria, la bruixeta bona
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Espadelles
[Hide Photo] Espadelles
A not-uncommon European belay at Raco de les Espadelles. You might be tempted to criticize until you realize they climb way harder than you
[Hide Photo] A not-uncommon European belay at Raco de les Espadelles. You might be tempted to criticize until you realize they climb way harder than you
The Espadelles cliffline from near the highway.
[Hide Photo] The Espadelles cliffline from near the highway.
Espadelles Pano
[Hide Photo] Espadelles Pano
Raco de les Espadelles awesomeness.
[Hide Photo] Raco de les Espadelles awesomeness.
Part of the right end of Espadelles.  The climber (in black) is on "Toni Kaneloni", 8a+.
[Hide Photo] Part of the right end of Espadelles. The climber (in black) is on "Toni Kaneloni", 8a+.
The left end of the Espadelles cliffline.
[Hide Photo] The left end of the Espadelles cliffline.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
[Hide Comment] Regarding "Getting There", the "good dirt road" by the colorful dumpsters that you turn left on, is now paved with concrete. It's hard to tell because the red/brown soil has dye the concrete such that is looks like dirt. Apr 15, 2012