Elevation: 1,834 ft
GPS: 41.302, 0.774 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,098 total · 54/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009 with updates from Jake Dickerson
Admins: Jason Halladay
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Description

The eye of every first-time visitor to Margalef is instantly drawn to the striking orange cliffband that towers above the crags of the valley below. This is Raco de les Espadelles, and its one of the best cliffs in the region. The rock is excellent, covered in beautiful colored streaks, and featuring some of the best tufa climbing at Margalef. There are over 50 routes here, ranging from 5.10 to 5.14c, with several open projects and potential for many more.

Must do routes here include Perepunyetes, 5.10+, a juggy near-vertical wall, Draculin, 5.12a, a sustained pocket route, Malasombra, 5.13a, a gently overhanging pocket line, and Transilvania, 5.13b, considered the best 8a at Margalef.

The cliff faces South-Southwest, and therefore receives sun most of the day. There are five or six routes at the far left end that begin from a grove of tall tress & receive a good bit of shade. The cliff undulates quite a bit, and has some steep overhangs, so you may be able to find pockets of shade at certain times.

Getting There

This crag is easy to see but harder to reach. Head Northeast out of Margalef on the T713 for about 1.5 Km. Turn right onto a paved road signed for "Embassement", passing under large power lines. Follow the paved road around the first hairpin, to a set of colorful dumpsters ~50 yds beyond. Turn left onto a good dirt road at the dumpsters. This road is very steep in spots, but generally good, & no problem for passenger cars in normal conditions. Wind up the road for what seems like too long, until the road gains a big plateau at a left hairpin turn. Park at the pullout at this hairpin. There is an abandoned stone shack ~50 yds South of the parking lot.

Follow a good trail South, past the shack, to a low-angle slab. Downclimb the slab (fixed rope & metal rungs), then turn left (East) & follow the trail a short bit to another short downclimb. Continue a few yards thru trees to the cliff.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Raco de les Espadelles

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Memoria Histerica
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Que Pasa Neng?
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Draculin
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Memoria Histerica
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Que Pasa Neng?
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Draculin
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Raco de les Espadelles »

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Regarding "Getting There", the "good dirt road" by the colorful dumpsters that you turn left on, is now paved with concrete. It's hard to tell because the red/brown soil has dye the concrete such that is looks like dirt. Apr 15, 2012