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Elevation: 1,834 ft 559 m
GPS: 41.3019, 0.7739
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,125 total · 103/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

Description Suggest change

The eye of every first-time visitor to Margalef is instantly drawn to the striking orange cliffband that towers above the crags of the valley below. This is Raco de les Espadelles, and its one of the best cliffs in the region. The rock is excellent, covered in beautiful colored streaks, and featuring some of the best tufa climbing at Margalef. There are over 50 routes here, ranging from 5.10 to 5.14c, with several open projects and potential for many more.

Must do routes here include Perepunyetes, 5.10+, a juggy near-vertical wall, Draculin, 5.12a, a sustained pocket route, Malasombra, 5.13a, a gently overhanging pocket line, and Transilvania, 5.13b, considered the best 8a at Margalef.

The cliff faces South-Southwest, and therefore receives sun most of the day. There are five or six routes at the far left end that begin from a grove of tall tress & receive a good bit of shade. The cliff undulates quite a bit, and has some steep overhangs, so you may be able to find pockets of shade at certain times.

Getting There Suggest change

This crag is easy to see but harder to reach. Head Northeast out of Margalef on the T713 for about 1.5 Km. Turn right onto a paved road signed for "Embassement", passing under large power lines. Follow the paved road around the first hairpin, to a set of colorful dumpsters ~50 yds beyond. Turn left onto a good dirt road at the dumpsters. This road is very steep in spots, but generally good, & no problem for passenger cars in normal conditions. Wind up the road for what seems like too long, until the road gains a big plateau at a left hairpin turn. Park at the pullout at this hairpin. There is an abandoned stone shack ~50 yds South of the parking lot.

Follow a good trail South, past the shack, to a low-angle slab. Downclimb the slab (fixed rope & metal rungs), then turn left (East) & follow the trail a short bit to another short downclimb. Continue a few yards thru trees to the cliff.

33 Total Climbs

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Location: Raco de les Espadelles Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Raco de les Espadelles

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
La hormiga atomica
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Perepunyetes
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Memoria Histerica
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Guirlache
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Tastavins
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Setareh
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Que Pasa Neng?
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Draculin
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
La Gomorra
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Maligna
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
La hormiga atomica
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Perepunyetes
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Memoria Histerica
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Guirlache
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tastavins
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Setareh
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Que Pasa Neng?
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Draculin
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
La Gomorra
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Maligna
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Raco de les Espadelles »

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