William's Canyon Rock Climbing
Areas in William's Canyon
Caveman Wall 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
|GPS:||38.888, -104.917 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Phil Lauffen on Nov 26, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionImagine a canyon with towering, 200 foot, limestone walls tucked away into a secluded setting with gorgeous views of the front range. Now imagine this canyon located a paltry 15 minute drive from Garden of the Gods. Too good to be true? Go check out William's canyon.
Most of the development in the canyon so far has been limited to the east side on two distinct cliffs, Caveman Wall, and Greentuary.
Caveman Wall offers shorter to mid-length climbs on surprisingly steep and solid limestone. Most of the climbs here range from 5.11-5.12. On top of that there are two moderate climbs and a few more difficult routes for those who are actually good at climbing. This wall faces southwest and offered great temperatures on a 45 degree day with snow coating the valley and approach trail.
Stewart Green offered me the following information about the areas below:
Greentuary, though I have yet to visit, has longer climbing on a wall containing a 5.11a, 5.11c, and a 5.12b. These routes push 100 feet long. Bring a 60m rope. This wall faces west.
The Shady Side has one climb at 5.11b up a steep dihedral to a roof. I saw this climb and would have tried it were it not in the shade(duh) and the ground coated with a foot of snow. The shady side, as implied by the name, is shady because it faces northwest. Go here on a hot day.
The Temple, which is the large, 200 foot cliff visible across the canyon from Caveman wall has one route. The first pitch goes at a chossy 5.8, the second kicks it up a notch to 5.13. The hangers have been removed from the second pitch, but it is still available to top rope. This awe-inspiring cliff faces east, and was in the sun most of the morning.
It is true that some of the rock is a little loose, so it is advisable to bring a helmet. However, this is not a reason to miss the opportunity to check this place out! My partner and I climbed six routes in the course of about 3 hours and I only kicked off a foothold once on lower angle, easy terrain.
For a secluded, sport climbing adventure, go check out William's Canyon.
Getting ThereTurn onto Rampart Range Road from the Garden of the Gods (just NW of balancing rock) and drive up this dirt road for 5 miles. Park at a nice pullout on the north side of the water/cell tower that is obvious from the road. It is advisable to have a car with high clearance and good traction, as this road can be rutted and/or icy.
From here, finding the canyon gets a little more difficult. Walk back along the road to the south. Once you can walk no further south along the road without turning to the east look to your right. There should be a hole in a fence you can duck through. At some point you should be able to see a large limestone cliff facing East. This is The Temple. To access Caveman Wall continue walking west along this path, in the general direction of the Temple. After a few minutes, you will come to a gradual turn to the left (south). Begin looking for a cairn appearing on the right side of the trail. When you are at the cairn go straight west over small scrub oak and begin down a reasonably well defined trail, continuing southwest. Continue down this trail until you are between limestone cliffs to your left and to your right. The cliff to your left(south) is shady side. The cliff to your right (north) is Caveman Wall.
If you missed the cairn you will end up walking due south along a dirt road (not RRR). At some point try to cut right, to the west and rejoin the trail, trending in a westward direction.
Classic Climbing Routes at William's Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season