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Routes in Small Fry Big Shake

Banana Split S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cinnabun S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Cholesterol V2 5+

Description

One of my issues with Lemmon is there aren't a ton of easy things for beginners, kids and people with a fear of heights that wanna get a feel for climbing. When you climb 5.11s, 5.5 seems like walking up a flight of stairs but when you're new to climbing or a little kid a 65 foot 5.5 seems like a thousand feet of overhung crimpers. It's also tough to give directions when you have to shout them from 50 feet away. So instead of complaining and doing nothing this is the first of my solutions.

This is a 20+ foot slab, easy climbing (but still slab) and there are two fresh bolts I just put in on the top. You will need a 24" sling to set up top rope as two draws won't do it. I don't know if they will get used much and but they're out of sight and there if you want them.

This would also be an ideal spot for showing somebody how to clean anchors as you can safely sit right there and show them.

Getting There

This is up the canyon about 10 minutes from the road just beyond the Alcove on the right hand side before the canyon cuts right.

3 Total Climbs

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Adam Block
Tucson, AZ
Adam Block   Tucson, AZ
Did you end up making it over there? Not the most eventful to climb on but one of the few places outside for what you're looking for. Aldo great for teaching people as the top is easy to access and there are bolts so it works for teaching people how to clean which I've also done at Gate's Pass though this boulder is much better for it. Feb 4, 2011
Cody M
Tucson, AZ
Cody M   Tucson, AZ
Hey Adam, thanks a ton for your effort here. I have a girlfriend still new to climbing that wants to go outside and see why I'm so in love with it. She's a solid 5.5 climber in the gym, but a bad first impression (too high, too scary, etc) could forever ruin her interest in outdoor climbing. If these are still here, I'll take her up in a few weeks, especially if it's near some taller walls (left-hand wall and whatnot?) Dec 1, 2010

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