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(CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Suburbia Rock Climbing


Routes in (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Suburbia

Big Fat Friend T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cowboys in Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cul-de-sac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Girl Next Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Man in Suburbia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Manifest Destiny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nomadic Alternative T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R.I.L.F. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Red Lock in Suburbia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: SEASONAL RAPTOR ISSUES Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Tired of the crowds at Indian Creek? Then march your way up the quadruple-sized talus cone to Suburbia! Left again from The Wall, Suburbia (AKA A Long Way From Suburbia) is OUT THERE!

Just hiked the cliff. Not too many "Holy shit, look at that!" type routes accept for Killer, a long 5.12 splitter/offset. Bloom's new edition catalogs everything that I saw pretty well.

Probably 5 or 6 obvious routes left to do. The newer routes all have steel anchors. It would be nice to continue that trend.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

I approached via the NW edge of the talus but this is not recommended.

From the parking area of The Wall, walk back down the road towards highway 211 for approximately 100 yards, then leave road hiking towards the Suburbia Wall, aiming for the very left side edge.

Cross a series of smaller shallow vegetated washes (looking for cairns) until a much larger and deeper wash becomes visible.

Head into the deep wash when convenient, cross when possible, then continue along the wash's other side hopefully seeing some cairns and mostly now heading towards the large forming arch far right of Suburbia Wall.

Continue as remnants of old mining road become more apparent.

Follow the zigzagging mining road until cairns lead away from the road and up to the base of the crag near where Bloom says Honey Pot is supposed to be. The pillar that Unknown 5.10 (route 13 in Bloom's book) is behind is also a good landmark.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Suburbia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Nomadic Alternative
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Unknown 5.10
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Manifest Destiny
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Red Lock in Suburbia
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Cul-de-sac
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nomadic Alternative
 15
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Unknown 5.10
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Manifest Destiny
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Red Lock in Suburbia
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cul-de-sac
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
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