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Routes in East Bluff North Talus Field

Description

This talus field is the first of the major talus fields on the East Bluff. Located just past the North Shore bouldering area to the south, this area is very similar to the slant boulder field on the West Bluff with large boulders thrown about on a nice hillside. Many hard projects in the area so there is some work to be done.

Note: The potential in this area is amazing, so I would guess others have climbed here before. Terry, Paul, Eric, anyone? If there is any extra info for the area please fill in some blanks.

Getting There

Enter the park at the north entrance and park in the farthest lot back by the railroad tracks(the lot just past where you park for the North Shore bouldering area). Park and hike straight up hill and you will be in the talus.

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff North Talus Field

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I use a really nice and stiff red paint remover brush from Ace. It's the best thing I've seen for getting that crusty lichen off. Works really really well. When I did Recreational Vehicle the holds were covered in the stuff and it was clean in 10 minutes. Dec 3, 2009
Wire brushes have been used in the past on quartzite. I wore a few brushes out when I first started bouldering at the lake. Don't use them on sandstone though. Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
I'm gonna just start using a wire brush to try to get some grittyness to the rock. lol. I hear by institue a wire brushing of all projects and things that I havent sent yet so that I may onsight them. Go forth and scrub :-) Dec 2, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
DL quartzite is ~7.5 on the Mohs scale of hardness, only topaz, corundum and diamond are harder. Not sure how wire compares. I have a piece of DL quartizte at my desk (obtained from just outside the park of course), I will try to remember to scrub it with wire brish and see if it visibly mars the surface-- of course this would not only be frowned upon, but also would be cheating: adding texture where there otherwise would be none! Dec 2, 2009
I've never used a wire brush at the lake before, but I did find one next to perfect medium the other day, so I would assume that at least some people use them. That doesn't necessarily mean that they should be using them though. Dec 2, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
So one of the big problems I found was the amount of crusted on lichen on all the boulders. It was certainly more than my stick scrub brush could do anything with. How do you think you guys will clean this stuff? The hard nature of the rock (as opposed to the dodge) seems like it could hold up to some wire brush use for sure. What do you guys think? That being said I believe it is one of the most accessible boulder areas we have as it is literally straight up from where ever you park your car. Dec 2, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Sounds good. All those in favor?

How is this:

Nov 15, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Nice Langlois. Nov 15, 2009
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
I prefer Rhoadsville and Remotown Nov 14, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Yeah Nick you are right, some of area names on here are kinda confusing. How about this field be called the Monolith field,

and this one be called East Bluff North. Geographically that's more correct. Anyone have a better idea? Nov 13, 2009
Well, lets name them something a bit different then. I'll leave that up to you Chris, cause I'm already confused. Put this on the google map. If it's the field I think it is, it's more like the East Shore Talus Field. Nov 12, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Yah, you can see the separate areas easily from West Bluff. Nov 12, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Rhoads, I figured out that they are two different talus fields. I hiked them both and they are separated like the talus fields on the West Bluff. The Australia boulder is just downhill from the Thin Man Corridor at the Monolith. I just wanted to make it less confusing and easier to find. Nov 12, 2009
Remo, WTF? I already added this area. Going for those MP points eh? I hear you can redeem them for smokes. Eggbert, can you combine these, Remo mucked it up! Nov 12, 2009
So hype to get back and check all this stuff out!!! Nov 11, 2009

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