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Routes in Eagle Rock

Awesome looking sport route! S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Scoop, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stud + two bolts S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Rope TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 1 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown 2 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 3 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 39.096, -120.164 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,938 total, 40/month
Shared By: Chris S on Nov 3, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Eagle Rock is an outcrop of volcanic welded tuff on the west shore of Lake Tahoe. Only a few minutes uphill from the pull-out, there are five to ten bolted lines. Some look a little more "adventurous". But there's several well-bolted routes too. These routes aren't listed in any guidebook, so there's no ratings or route names known.

Getting There

Drive three miles south on Hwy 89 from Tahoe City to Eagle Rock. Park in the pull-out on the west side of the highway immediately past Eagle Rock.

From there, walk north back up the road 20 feet then cut left and up over some fallen trees and shrubs. Head right after climbing up 20-30 feet and you should see the tiny dirt trail. Follow that up for 50 feet or so and it will be on your left in a clearing.

The majority of the routes are on the southeast corner of Eagle Rock, and also on the nearby east and south aspects.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unknown 3
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unknown 3 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport
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Brian McMillan
Reno, NV
Brian McMillan   Reno, NV
Are there top rope anchor bolts on the top of Eagle Rock? I'd like to top rope solo there, if not I can build an anchor, is it doable? Oct 7, 2017
Wear your helmet! Put it on at the car. There are lots of people above who have no idea you are down there. We hauled out a lawn chair that had been thrown off the top.

The 3 listed routes are good for an after-work climb, but hardly a destination like Eagle Lakes to the south (no relation to this area), or Big Chief or Donner to the north. The rock is somewhat loose like the Pinnacles. All of the bolts I found appear to be stainless steel of modern vintage.

I walked around the base and spotted the 3 listed routes (as of July 2017) as well as 4 other lines on the east and north side of the rock (I have added, please leave a comment and I'll update). The listed routes had been climbed in the past few months. The unlisted routes seemed to have no chalk or sign of use (one had a bail biner on the 1st bolt). At least two of the unlisted routes appeared to be well-protected, modern sport lines. Maybe this was someone's project area a few years back? Jul 18, 2017
Road
Stanton
Road   Stanton
wasn't easy to find. from the main parking lot, walk north back up the road 20 feet then cut left and up over some fallen trees and shrubs. head right after climbing up 20-30 feet and you should see the tiny dirt trail. Follow that up for 50ish feet and it will be on your left in a clearing.

It seems that the third route keeps going past the shared anchor with route two. I didn't investigate Aug 1, 2015
Jared Moore
Tahoe City, CA
Jared Moore   Tahoe City, CA
Cool, thanks Chris. I'm wondering if bolting is even allowed here. I've heard climbing is prohibited at Eagle Rock, but there are no signs indicating this. I want to ask someone if bolting is okay, but I'm also afraid that they will say climbing is not even permitted. Jun 9, 2014
Chris S  
No idea who bolted the routes at Eagle Rock - I did find an older staple-back guide that mentioned Eagle Rock as a top rope location but didn't list any bolting activity (that book is in storage right now, if I can dig it out I'll try to scan it and share the resulting PDF). Some of the bolting is (obviously) true sport climbing, but some of the older routes look like to be more trad leaning - you may need a few pieces of gear or slings to adequately protect the route. Jun 9, 2014
Jared Moore
Tahoe City, CA
Jared Moore   Tahoe City, CA
Who bolted the routes on Eagle Rock? Jun 8, 2014
Jared Moore
Tahoe City, CA
Jared Moore   Tahoe City, CA
My girlfriend and I have scouted out this rock a couple times now -- we just moved here. We found and climbed 3 bolted routes, so far, that are safe and fun to climb. There were a few other lines that seemed to have a few bolts towards the bottom but disappear soon after. Maybe they exist, not sure. The area we climbed today was the wall located just above the steep rock face right next to the road. I am really baffled as to why the 3 established routes have no name or grade. One would think that the person bolting would have passed on that information. IMHO (and I could be a bit off), going from left to right, I would give the routes ratings of 5.8, 5.10b/c, and 5.9. To the right of these lines a little ways are the 2 or 3 other lines I mentioned before. There are plenty of places around the rock where a TR could be setup. I'm curious to see how this rock develops, as there seems to be a lot of room for future lines to go up. Hope this helps anyone whose thinking of going out and climbing Eagle Rock. Pretty fun climbing, especially if you live around Tahoma, with it being so close. The next few days will be really nice for climbing. Little bit of snow to get through to get to the wall, but there is no snow on the actual wall itself. Dec 15, 2013
Chris S  
The directions are pretty much spot on - Eagle Rock is immediately off the road - so immediate that they cut into it to engineer the roadbed. Its also the only rock in site at this point of the road, so you really shouldn't miss it! Its 3 miles from the city limit sign or 4.7 miles from the 89/28 stop light in Tahoe City. Using Google Maps, that's 6.4 miles north of Meeks Bay. Of course, its under a lot of snow right now - but you probably know that!! :)

Have a fun adventure, and let me know what you think!

Chris Jan 20, 2011
Gill
minden, nevada
Gill   minden, nevada
I live in Minden. Don't know the west shore very well. Can anyone give me a better idea how far away Eagle Rock is from Tahoe City? Or better yet I'll be driving up from the South. How far is Eagle Rock from Emerald Bay or Meeks Bay? How do you know which rock is Eagle Rock? THANKS Jan 20, 2011

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