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Routes in The Furnace

Backburner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Balance of Power, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole Sun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Easy Bake Oven, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Every Man's An Island S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire in the Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incinerator, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Love Me, Love My Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sideshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solarise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

A south facing crag that gets sun early and late. Only the bases of some routes are in the shade of trees and the upper parts are scorching, and long enough to make you feet it. Still the rock is solid, the routes consistent and fun, and the climbing continuous.

From left to right the routes are:
1) Easy Bake Oven/Sideshow (5.8/5.9)
2) Backburner (10b)
3) Balance of Power (12a)
4) Incinerator (11d)
5) Solarise (10b)
6) Free the Mind (9+)
7) Unknown New Route (10c)
8) Love Me, Love My Route (10b)
A cave back behind and left of the cliff contains one additional route called
8) Every Man Is an Island (10c)
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Getting There

Start up as for Crazy Horse, but take a left at the first switchback at a well-marked sign to go down and right below the base of the cliff. Continue right for a few hundred yards past a bulky and blank overhang that faces SW, and onto the South face with large hanging tufas and a large cave. This is the main Furnace Wall.

The start of 'Easy Bake' will not be easy to see, so the first obvious route at the right of the trees is 'Backburner' and the one up through the left side of the cave is 'The Incinerator.'

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Furnace

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

there is a new route to the left of the rightmost route. it goes at 5.11b-ish. fantastic! 30 meters, 14 bolts. 4 stars Mar 5, 2012

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