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Routes in Crazy Horse Buttress

(Mai Roo Reuang) I Have No Idea!!! S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
(Tood Ma) The Horse's Ass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A Horse With No Name S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Wild Ride on a Crazy Horse S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ahya! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Rock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bamboo Finders S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beehouse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blood, Love and Steel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dangeours Joy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ding Dong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dont Look a Gift Horse in the Mouth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Free the Spirit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Headhunters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horse Knows the Wall, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Into the Sun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Got To Be Funky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Give me More S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magic Drop S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muppet Show, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Partners (left) aka Steve Gumaer and Co,. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Partners (right) aka Steve Gumaer and Co., S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reindeer Request S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rope and Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thai Who Loved Me, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:


This is the premier and most popular crag in the area. Perhaps being the namesake of the entire area, the first area climbed, being so close to the parking (2 minutes) or having the greatest number of pitches (50+ if you count the adjoining 'Archway.'
For whatever reason, this is the place to go if you want to run into other climbers. Still, due to the overall small number of folks climbing in Chaing Mai, you can be sure that there will be open routes there.
From a fist full of french grade 5's, which may have guides and clients on them) to a large number of 6's (5.10-11c) and a few 7's (5.11+ to 5.12) and a sole 8a (5.13) for the .nu scorecard type there are routes for almost anyone.
This primarily south facing crag will likely remind the well-traveled Asia climber of the climbing at Batu Caves (K.L. Malaysia), and to some degree of Railee/Tonsai. The walls are a little bit shorter, the tufas smaller, and the crowds non existent however. While the weather is not quite as oppressively hot as places like Bangkok and K.L., as it is moderated by a slightly more northern latitude and slight altitude, it lacks the cooling effect of a nearby ocean that so benefits the southern coastal climbing.... and this wall faces primarily south.
Crazy Horse buttress is really more or less the same formation as the adjoining wall, The Archway, but can be distinguished as different by the approach and the Character of the climbing, and as such, they will be listed separately here.
The rock is limestone karst and is primarily compact and hard lime, sharp in places and for the most part positive. Naturally however, the existing slopers are glassy and polished on the more popular lines. These get more difficult when in the sun, but the area's slightly sot given grades make them reasonable ticks even in challenging conditions.
From left to right on the West Face, starting from the far left edge (left of the arriving trail) the climbs are:
1) The Muppet Show (5.8)
2) Ding Dong (5.8)
3) Rope and Rock (5.7)
4) Mai Roo Reuang (10c)
5) Magic Drop (10c, shares start with #6)
6) Reindeer Request (10b, shares start with #5)
7) Some Like It Hot (10c, a girdle route which shares start with 2 previous routes)
8) Ahah! (10a)
9) Bamboo Finders (10c)
10) The Beehouse (11c)
11) Blood Love and Steel (11a)
12) An open project estimated in the 8B+ range.
This is it for the South Face of the wall from the base, but there are significant additional pitches that can be reached from the tops of the pitches listed. The following are on the right side, on the West Face, which gets morning shade. This includes everything right of the rebar ladder.
13) Dangerous Joy (10d)
14) The Horse Knows the Way (12b)
15) The Horses Ass (12a, shares start with #16)
16) Dont Look a Gift Horse In the Mouth (11d, 2 pithces, shares start of P1 with #15)
17) Into the Sun (10b, two pitches, crux on upper pitch)

Again, a smattering of additional pitches and routes is accessible from the tops of these listed climbs.
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Getting There

From the top parking lot of the dirt road into the Crazy Horse area, park and turn facing uphill. The large buttress you see is Crazy Horse. The restrooms are back and to your left. Head up and left to a trail past the water kiosks where there is likely to be drinking water but don't bet your day on it.(Please read the posted information about this project.)
Head up the well marked trail a few minutes past some rails and platforms on the trail for a few minutes to arrive at the left edge of the crag.

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