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R. The Widow's Tears Area

California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side
Warning Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsDrop down

Description

Most of the day in the shade. Consists from The Widow's Tears proper which is ice climbing area in some years in the winter and Tower of Cosmic Wind, which is about 300 yards right from The Widow's Tears.Tower of Cosmic Wind is on the Buttress which lead to Stanford point via Wind Chill. On this Tower located two stelar routes " Windjammer" and "Windfall"To reach Widows Tears proper (for rock climbs during those seasons) I’d recommend following the directions to The Tower of Cosmic Winds then traversing that ledge further left.     Some may want to rope up for it.  We never did, but one could die taking it lightly.  

Getting There

Take highway 41 from the Valley floor. Park at long very narrow not paved pullout Just before Discovery View. From this pullout you can clearly see fissure of Widow's Tears. For "Windjammer" and "Windfall," cross the road and walk up (no trail) to the right. The creek running from Widow's Tears should be at you left. At some point you'll find ducks which lead to the base of "Windjammer." The approach routes are class 3 from the right side as shown in Reid's book. The approach takes about 50 minutes.For The Widow's Tears proper you walk directly up and than follow the bad of the creek. It will bring you to the base where one rope is fix.EDIT, September 2012:Some time after I made route approach description, Cal Trans repaved the road and the old location of "very narrow not paved pullout" is gone - and instead it moved up the road closed to Discovery View and it exactly one mile from junction of hwy 120/41. Now from east end of this new narrow and NOT paved pullout - you can see Tower of Cosmic Wind ( place where Windfall and Windjammer located). Even better view of this formation is from Discovery View east end of Wawona tunnel).From new not paved pullout 1 mile from hw 120/41 go down and toward the Valley about 150 yards until you see open talus crossing the road. From there go up in direction toward Tower of Cosmic Wind try to approach from right side of the Tower follow the talus and cairns.2019:   To reach Widow’s Tears proper for rock climbs during those season series, I’d recommend following description to The Tower of Cosmic Winds then keep traversing left.   Some may want a rope for this.  We never did, but one could die if it’s taken lightly.    

Routes from Left to Right

5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 5
The Lurch
Trad 7 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Riding on the Wind
Trad 10 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Windfall
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Windjammer
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Windchill
Trad 13 pitches
WI5
 7
Widow's Tears
Ice 7 pitches
WI5
 2
Silver Strand
Ice 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Lurch
 5
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad 7 pitches
Riding on the Wind
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 10 pitches
Windfall
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Windjammer
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Windchill
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 13 pitches
Widow's Tears
 7
WI5 Ice 7 pitches
Silver Strand
 2
WI5 Ice 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

long, steep pitch in the middle. March 2018
[Hide Photo] long, steep pitch in the middle. March 2018
JKauffman leading the crux pitch
[Hide Photo] JKauffman leading the crux pitch
Looking down at the last pitch.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the last pitch.
WT on left, tower of cosmic winds center, SS on right
[Hide Photo] WT on left, tower of cosmic winds center, SS on right
The Tower of Cosmic Winds, as seen from the vicinity of the Pohono bridge
[Hide Photo] The Tower of Cosmic Winds, as seen from the vicinity of the Pohono bridge
here's the route a week before richard's photo, a little more blue than white :) 
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2/28/18
[Hide Photo] here's the route a week before richard's photo, a little more blue than white :) 2/28/18
first half of the route in good conditions. 2/27/18
[Hide Photo] first half of the route in good conditions. 2/27/18

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
[Hide Comment] Making approach description 3 years ago by myself - I had the hope to find Windfall base in 50 min. Yesterday we took 3 hours of bushwhacking ( more than Hans and Honnold to finish the Nose) and did not find the Tower of cosmic wind.
Returned to the car . Found and explanation-with recent road repayment- Long paved pullout moved up the road about half kilometer - and old one - do not exist anymore.
Aproach deskription need to be rewritten Jun 18, 2012
Bryan G
June Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] I actually tried to go climbing there a week ago and had the same issue. We parked at the long paved pullout on the right side of the road just before Discovery View. The Reid guide mentions hiking up talus and I didn't see any talus above the road, only forest. Also it seemed like we were parked awfully far to the west. We had a late start and it was already too hot to be making a long uphill slog through bushes to a cliff that I wasn't even sure was the right cliff. We opted for an easy day of cragging around the Wawona Tunnel instead.

I will return with better beta and my nerve steeled for a long(ish) approach. Jun 20, 2012
Rob Dillon
Tamarisk Clearing
[Hide Comment] Eyeball the Tower on the way up, park at the new long pullout, and walk back downhill :( until you are back at the talus field that leads to your destination. Should be 45-50 min. if you get it right.

For added value, continue to Stanford Point via Wind Chill [the obscure Elliott Robinson/Bruce Morris thing] and jog down the trail straight to your car. Don't leave gear at the base if you do this. Aug 1, 2012
Bryan G
June Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] When we went back we used a small dirt pullout on the south side of the road maybe a fifth of a mile before the new paved pullout. From here you still have to walk downhill (toward the Valley) for a ways before heading up into the talus at a totally inobvious point. A short ways up you'll cross an old dirt road and there are cairns that mark the start of the best talus field to take. You're aiming for a little right of the tower actually since all the climbs are approached from ledges that lead in from the right. If you come up directly below the tower you will encounter bushwhacking.

If you are unsure what the Tower of Cosmic Winds is (we had no idea what it looked like) it's the large "tower" looking thing to the right of the Widow's Tears. The Widow's Tears is the pretty obvious bowl/recess which has a seasonal waterfall that comes down the middle of it. 45-50 min approach is about right, but it'll probably feel like longer, haha. Aug 6, 2012
[Hide Comment] Seasonal Climbing Closure March 1 - July 15 

Closure includes all routes within the Widow’s Tears Alcove. Routes on Tower of Cosmic Winds remain open.

Peregrine falcons are most vulnerable during their breeding season and are easily stressed when humans approach their nests. Please help us respect peregrine falcons and golden eagles nesting in Yosemite by complying with seasonal climbing closures. Park biologists will begin surveys in March and reassess the closure when the falcon's nest site has been determined. Thank you for understanding. Feb 28, 2024