Slugg's Bluff Roped Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 1,474 ft | 449 m |
GPS: |
46.44439, -87.57049 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 21,416 total · 115/month | |
Shared By: | Drew B. on Oct 20, 2009 | |
Admins: | John Miller, Paul DeMay |
Description
The Upper Peninsula Climbers’ Coalition (UPCC) is an Access Fund Affiliate (501c3) whose mission is to preserve and protect climbing areas throughout Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. One such climbing area is located in the small mining town of Palmer, affectionately known as Slug’s Bluff.
The climbing area got its name after Leo ‘Slug’ Arbelius who owned this ten acre parcel with his wife Alice Arbelius. Leo and Alice raised their family in Palmer, operated the local grocery store, and used Slug’s Bluff to graze their cows.
In the 1970s, climbers discovered this 80’ tall quartzite cliff, and the Arbelius Family graciously allowed others to utilize this parcel for recreational uses.
Over the ensuing decades, the UPCC, in conjunction with NMU’s climbing club (@superiorclimbing ), organized numerous cleanups of this property. This involved the removal of all sorts of items that had been dumped over the lookout, as well as removing graffiti and garbage from the top of the escarpment.
In 2022, the UPCC approached the Arbelius Family to see if there was any interest in selling this undeveloped acreage. The UPCC had feared that the parcel would be sold, and that the new owner would not allow the public to access it. The Arbelius Family—in an act of unparalleled generosity—agreed to gift Slug’s Bluff to the UPCC. The UPCC, in return, has agreed to preserve this area for outdoor recreation and to erect a kiosk at the trailhead in dedication to the Arbelius Family.
Through this acquisition, Slug’s Bluff is now the first climber-owned climbing area in Michigan.
Slug’s Bluff currently has 15+ quality sport routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.12. It also has numerous quality trad lines, which range from 5.5 to 5.12. There is certainly room for many more routes to be developed.
Preserving, maintaining, and managing a ten acre climbing area is not easy or cheap, which makes climber support important. Please consider joining the Access Fund / UPCC and/or make a donation at upperpeninsulaclimbing.com/.
Getting There
From Marquette: (20-30 min)
Drive south down County Road 553. 5-8 minutes after Marquette Mountain, turn right on Co Road 480 at the stop sing. Drive west until you each a 4-way stop, turn left on road 35. Drive south. You will see the Palmer Mine to your right, you know you will be getting close.
Top access: (This road eventually becomes rough, so beware) Right before you drive into the town of Palmer, turn left on Anderson Road/Co Road Mb. Continue down an old paved road until you come to a power line clearing. Head up the power line, and turn left down a dirt road until you reach the top of the crag. The road to the top is much better than it used to be. The UPCC had the road graded from powerline to the top. Also, the largest rocks on the powerline were removed. At this time, anything with modest clearance (subaru or small crossovers) can make it to the top without issue.
Bottom access: Drive into the town of Palmer. Turn left on Isabella ave. Go straight while Isabella ave joins Richmond Road/Co Road Mc. Keep going east. Turn left at Anderson Road/Co Road Mb. The Cliff should be visible. Park on the turn out next to the old house foundation. Follow a faint trail up to the bottom of the cliff.
Classic Climbing Routes at Slugg's Bluff Roped
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