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Routes in The Bungalow

Car Jack (variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dugout, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gas Hike S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Incident Management (variation) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Learner's Permit S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moped S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prybar S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Rage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumble Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Shovels S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Noise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 5,041 ft
GPS: 40.711, -111.79 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 11,172 total, 113/month
Shared By: Tea on Oct 12, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

The Scoop

A small addition to the Parley's crags. All routes done May 2008.

Getting There

Best approached from above with an easy 5 minute walk from the top of
existing Parley's crags. Pass the cell tower building on the south side taking
the obvious hiking trail East. At the first fork go left. Trail sidehills over to,
and ends near a power pole. Continue over to the top of the routes or go down
Rusty's Staircase (5.0) to the base of the routes. Though the routes are short,
the rock is good and the climbing fun and moderate.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bungalow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Shovels
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
The Dugout
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prybar
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Two Shovels 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Dugout 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Prybar 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Bungalow »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
Added a bolt to the start of Two Shovels. Getting clipped is much more reasonable.
Folks have helped with cleaning the gulley and the base area and it is quite good now. THANK YOU!

Use the rope in the descent gulley for a belay anchor if needed.
I tried for a belay bolt but the rock down low won't have it. Jun 17, 2017
Tea
Tea  
For historical purposes…"Rusty's Staircase" got it's name because my heeler puppy Russ Tea (who's kind of a bad ass) climbed the feature trying to meet me on top. Just sayin... Aug 6, 2016
Zach Sims
Riverdale, UT
Zach Sims   Riverdale, UT
Don't approach the wall from the bottom! You might think it looks easier to walk along the old road, but there are some dangerous areas with loose rock that will send you down onto I-80 or the frontage road if you aren't careful.

Also this whole wall was pretty crimpy for the difficulty level. Jul 21, 2016
Rochelle S
Salt Lake City, UT
Rochelle S   Salt Lake City, UT
Climbs on the western face (right of Rusty's Staircaise) are great, thanks for setting them! belay area is tight down there, but climbing is worth it.

Really don't recommend climbing DOWN Rusty's staircase! We rapped down Road Rage (setup nice for a top roped project), and climbed out via Rusty's. 'staircase' is a misnomer - it's really technical scrambling at a 5.3 level. May 3, 2015
dawdle Chavez
SLC,UT
dawdle Chavez   SLC,UT
climbed here on fri (6/13/14), nice spot to climb with good rock quality but beware of rattlesnakes. me and my climbing partner saw two rattlesnakes right next to the trail. we had to rap back down and take the long way out. thanks for putting up the rope on the staircase, it's definitely useful. Jun 16, 2014
Billy Smallen
Salt Lake City, UT
Billy Smallen   Salt Lake City, UT
cdec and I put up three new routes on the Bungalow Wall over the last couple of months. They are located on the wall to the right of Rusty's Staircase, and have cleaned up really nicely! Check them out!

Here is the approach info:

• The regular approach follows the approach directions for the Upper Bungalow Wall and then makes use of a fixed rope to descend the gully below Rusty's Staircase. The fixed rope is located towards the highway from the wall at the bottom of the downclimb.

• The lower approach is accessed via the old highway that runs from the base of the Iron Curtain Wall and ends after the Bungalow Wall. Walk up canyon past the Riptide Wall, past some scree piles, until you are almost at the Bungalow Wall. A faint trail heading up and right will take you to the Lower Bungalow Wall. Be wary not to grab loose rock as you reach the wall, the rock is actively exfoliating. Apr 18, 2014
Encountered 2 large rattlesnakes at this area today at the top of the routes and almost got bit myself....Dropped my guidebook in a panic on the way to the rappel and I wasn't able to go back and get it due to the snake so if anyone finds a "Guidebook to climbing the Wasatch Range" at the top of Gas Hike (I think) and wants to return it, it would be greatly appreciated. Jun 26, 2013
TLEE
Salt Lake City
TLEE   Salt Lake City
Medium Hike, easy to get to, however you start at the top of the climb so you have to scramble down or rappel down. Lots of easy climbs which are great for beginners and starting lead climbers. Good Shade however around 1 the sun is in your eyes climbing and in your belayers eyes. So get there early. The 5.10 is really a 5.9 with a couple thin tuff moves, the rest of the climb is easy so there isn't much difficulty on this crag, makes for good beginner crag.

Also remember to save enough energy to climb out of the belay area.


May 12, 2013
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
Nice little crag with a couple moderate routes. Easy to get to. With the trees it's shaded for the belayer almost all day. Everything can be top roped if you are taking out some beginners. Sep 5, 2011
Andrew May
Westminster, CO
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
We went to the canyon to scout out some climbs today, and I just want to make sure we found the Bungalow Wall. It is the crag furthest East into the canyon right?
I just moved to the area and dont start my new job for 2 months, so my schedule is wide open. Does anyone have time to show me around a little? Oct 31, 2009
Fun moderates. Great addition to the area. Oct 25, 2009
Tea
Tea  
Misinformation by someone...it's been the Bungalow from the get go. Oct 13, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Wasn't this area named the Tiki Wall at some point?
Fun routes, at least one of which deserving more than 1.5 stars... Oct 13, 2009

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