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Routes in Mt. Chaktar

Courage of the Fearless Crew T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghosts of the Past T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Strassman Memorial Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
We Expect You T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

Mt. Chaktar lies a few peaks NW of The Sheepshead. For a photographic visual from the west, go to location in the below photo and identify The Sheepshead. The first peak left of The Sheepshead is The Muttonhead. Left of The Muttonhead lies Hootgoat Mtn with Mallethead immediately underneath that. And left of Hootgoat Mtn is Mt. Chaktar.


In short, viewing from the west, Mt. Chaktar is the 3rd peak on the skyline to the left of The Sheepshead. Bob Kerry's topo of the four peaks/domes may be helpful.

Getting There

Follow the approach to The Muttonhead where the currently discernable trail ends (2009). Drop down maybe 40 feet and traverse beneath Mallethead. Once past Mallethead, head up perhaps 50 feet to a saddle. Traverse down into the next gully which lies between Mallethead and Mt. Chaktar; this is the descent gully from some climbs on Chaktar so perhaps drop gear not needed on the climb. Traverse / bushwhack left along the base of Mt. Chaktar to reach the desired climb.

Descent Details


Scramble toward the back corner of Mt. Chaktar that is closest to Hootgoat Mtn. Find a large tree (~1 foot diameter) with slings. We did one rap on a single 60 meter rope, trending towards the notch at the top of the descent gully between Mt. Chaktar and Hootgoat Mtn. Midway on the rap, we climbed out of a slot towards the notch and then continued the rap down a crack to a large flat boulder / platform.

From the large flat platform, we scrambled toward the notch until at an impasse quite close to the descent gully. From the impasse, go right (~SW) up to a ~6 inch diameter pine tree which has three main branches. Make improbable boulder moves to the top just above the tree. Then follow 3rd class down towards another tree ~20 meters below. As one approaches this second tree, take the rightward ramp now in view which heads to obvious scrambling to the gulley at a point well below the notch.

There is an abundance of slings elsewhere as testimony to folks doing a second rap to get to the gulley. Ours may not be the only way or the best way to avoid a second rap.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Chaktar

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