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Routes in Sandwich Spire West Face (New York Deli Wall)

Big Apple, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoagie Crease T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
New York Deli S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
New York goes to Chicago T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Yorker, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pinball Wizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

The West Face of Sandwich Spire is in a tight gully that gets very little sun. The approach, which is a royal pain of downed oak and Manzanita bush-whacking, will almost guarantee that you will be alone should you venture to this crag. Should you choose to accept the approach mission you will find great rock quality with many sport routes in the 5.10-11 range.

Getting There

Really?? It looks like it would be so easy as you stare at the spires when you drive past 7 Cataracts.

I personally think your best bet is to hike out towards Beaver Wall (at Windy Point) and start making your way down the hill. The trail that passes Turret Rock trail mentioned in SQLII is no longer there as far as I could tell. Having a copy of Squeezing the Lemmon II is handy. The west face is located in the tightest of the gullies between the spires and is up road from Hawks Bill Spire by only a little ways. Good Luck!!

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jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
What a great wall. Approach is gnarly. But for those willing to figure it out you'll be rewarded with some really good sport climbing. We walked in on the old approach past turret. Got a little lost but figured it out. Trail is pretty non existent. I'd suggest taking the gully rather than rapping in. We rapped in then walked out. A cordelette is nice to have for the two 11s on the left. And there is no anchors on at least one climb. Really good climbing. Reminds me of the Ravens but not as good rock. A little chossy but we didn't break anything off. A lot of the routes ( but not all) are pretty tightly bolted. Pretty good spot if 5.11 is a little scary still. Can't wait to go back. Great temps today in the shade. Climbing in a tshirt. High of 75 in town Feb 7, 2016

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