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Runway (Lower Tier)

New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Early Wall

Description

Located on the central part of the Early wall, this crag is at the lowest point along the cliff band and provides the longest single pitch routes on great quality lower tier rock, and access to some routes on the upper tier. This crag sees sun for about an hour or two in the early morning making it a great warm weather destination. Routes tend to be challenging, tenuous, sustained, and contain multiple cruxes. A great training ground for the experienced sport climber.

Getting There

A new trail (fall 2012) has been established that takes one to The Runway quite directly via a nicely graded path. The new trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall. The trail heads west and traverses straight to the base of the Runway.

Alternatively, the historical approach is to scramble up loose crappy scree to the Grotto. At the top of the steep and loose scree and talus, head east (left) along the base of the north-aspect Early wall and when you hit the lowest point of the cliff, you are at the beginning of it.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
The Right Stuff
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 12
Holding Pattern
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Mocos Locos
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Boarding Pass
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Turbulence
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Pitch
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
Yaw
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Flight Simulator
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 22
Aerostar
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 35
Top Gun
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 14
Aviatrix
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Stone Temple Pilot
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Learning to Fly
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
The Mile-High Club
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 33
Ergo
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Airfoil
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
JetStream
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 16
Clip Art
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 24
A Day with Dr. Diablo
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Space Shuttle
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Right Stuff
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Holding Pattern
 12
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Mocos Locos
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Boarding Pass
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Turbulence
 9
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pitch
 9
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Yaw
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Flight Simulator
 9
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Aerostar
 22
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Top Gun
 35
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Aviatrix
 14
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Stone Temple Pilot
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Learning to Fly
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Mile-High Club
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ergo
 33
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Airfoil
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs
 57
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
JetStream
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Clip Art
 16
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
A Day with Dr. Diablo
 24
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Space Shuttle
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Runway (lettered routes in the middle of the wall): <br>
A - La Naris<br>
B - Mocos Locos<br>
C - Boarding Pass<br>
D - Flight Simulator<br>
E - Aerostar<br>
F - Top Gun<br>
G - Aviatrix<br>
Numbered routes are the same as in the beta photo for the Early Wall (Right End):<br>
Lower Tier----<br>
13 - Ergo<br>
15 - Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs<br>
16 - Clip Art<br>
16a - A Day with Dr. Diablo<br>
Upper Tier---<br>
14 - You're Scaring the Horses<br>
18 - Airbus<br>
17 - Lichening the Serpent<br>
20 - Solar Eclipse
[Hide Photo] The Runway (lettered routes in the middle of the wall): A - La Naris B - Mocos Locos C - Boarding Pass D - Flight Simulator E - Aerostar F - Top Gun G - Aviatrix Numbered routes are the sa…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Callahan
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] On Learning to Fly I had to bail on some quickdraws after my belayer got hit with some Rockfall. If anyone grabs them i would greatly appreciate getting them back! Thanks folks, my numbers 5712127660. Jul 7, 2017