Elevation: 1,216 ft
GPS: 43.415, -89.725 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,155 total · 382/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 25, 2009
Admins: Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

Bouldering above the east side of the Lake, most easily accessed from the South Shore parking lot.  This area is a complicated mosaic of boulder fields and forest with the quartzite layers descending from the promontory above Balanced Rock down toward the North Shore.

These areas are generally shaded first thing in the morning.

Getting There

Because of the slanting layers of rock, access to these areas is complicated.  

Some areas are most easily access from below, along the railroad tracks:  the lower end of the Mirror Talus, Railroad Amphitheater (popular for roped climbing, and for swimming) and the neighboring talus field, and the Birthday Rocks talus field.

The top of the East Bluff (the whole hill east of the Lake is the East Bluff) is reached by the Balanced Rock trail, and there are a scattering of classic boulder problems right along the trail.

Still other areas are most easily reached from the top of the East Bluff, along the East Bluff trail:  the aptly named Lost & Found boulders, the deceptively named Horse Rampart boulders, and scattered problems in the cliff lines at the scenic upper rim of the Bluff.

114 Total Climbs

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Location: East Bluff South Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 4
Funicular
Boulder
V0 4
 11
Balanced Rock
Boulder
V3 6A
 17
Lou Reed Arete
Boulder
V3 6A PG13
 5
Bunker Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 8
Birthday Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
 8
Lou Reed Lunge
Boulder
V6 7A
 9
Wildwood
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 16
Don't F With the Bees
Boulder
V7 7A+
 9
Bulbous Left Center
Boulder
V7 7A+
 10
Big Foot Arete
Boulder
V7 7A+ PG13
 3
Atlas Lion
Boulder
V7 7A+
 3
The Cardinal
Boulder
V8 7B PG13
 3
Best Bulge aka Black Rhino
Boulder
V8+ 7B+
 4
The Fukness
Boulder
V9-10 7C+
 3
Levitation (formerly The Office…
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Funicular 4. Railroad Amphitheater
 4
V0 4 Boulder
Balanced Rock 7. Balanced Roc… > Balanced Rock
 11
V0 4 Boulder
Lou Reed Arete 7. Balanced Roc… > Lou Reed
 17
V3 6A Boulder
Bunker Arete 6. Horse Rampar… > Bunker
 5
V3 6A PG13 Boulder
Birthday Arete 5. Birthday Talus > Bigfoot
 8
V3 6A Boulder
Lou Reed Lunge 7. Balanced Roc… > Lou Reed
 8
V4 6B Boulder
Wildwood 1. Mirror Talus > Wildwood
 9
V6 7A Boulder
Don't F With the Bees 2. The Lost & F… > Whaler's Rock
 16
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Bulbous Left Center 7. Balanced Roc… > Bulbous
 9
V7 7A+ Boulder
Big Foot Arete 5. Birthday Talus > Bigfoot
 10
V7 7A+ Boulder
Atlas Lion 7. Balanced Roc… > Black Rhino
 3
V7 7A+ PG13 Boulder
The Cardinal 7. Balanced Roc… > Black Rhino
 3
V7 7A+ Boulder
Best Bulge aka Black Rhino 7. Balanced Roc… > Black Rhino
 3
V8 7B PG13 Boulder
The Fukness 5. Birthday Talus > Fukness (aka Heartbreak)
 4
V8+ 7B+ Boulder
Levitation (formerly The Of… 2. The Lost & F… > Levitation (Office Pr…
 3
V9-10 7C+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in East Bluff South »

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