Elevation: 1,216 ft
GPS: 43.41477, -89.72535
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 109,400 total · 657/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 25, 2009
Admins: Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

Bouldering above the east side of the Lake, most easily accessed from the South Shore parking lot.  This area is a complicated mosaic of boulder fields and forest with the quartzite layers descending from the promontory above Balanced Rock down toward the North Shore.

These areas are generally shaded first thing in the morning.

Getting There

Because of the slanting layers of rock, access to these areas is complicated.  

Some areas are most easily accessed from below, along the railroad tracks:  the lower end of the Mirror Talus, Railroad Amphitheater (popular for roped climbing, and for swimming) and the neighboring talus field, and the Birthday Rocks talus field.

The top of the East Bluff (the whole hill east of the Lake is the East Bluff) is reached by the Balanced Rock trail, and there are a scattering of classic boulder problems right along the trail.

Still other areas are most easily reached from the top of the East Bluff, along the East Bluff trail:  the aptly named Lost & Found boulders, the upper end of the Mirror Talus, Pony Barricade, the deceptively named Horse Rampart boulders, and scattered problems in the cliff lines at the scenic upper rim of the Bluff.

176 Total Climbs

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Location: East Bluff South Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 14
Balanced Rock
Boulder
V2 5+ PG13
 4
Pearl of the Sea
Boulder
V3 6A
 20
Lou Reed Arete
Boulder
V3 6A PG13
 5
Bunker Arete
Boulder
V6 7A
 12
Wildwood
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 19
Don't F With the Bees
Boulder
V7 7A+
 14
Bulbous Left Center
Boulder
V7 7A+
 16
Big Foot Arete
Boulder
V7 7A+
 4
The Anvil aka The Cardinal
Boulder
V7 7A+
 9
Basswood
Boulder
V7 7A+
 3
Bassmaster
Boulder
V8 7B PG13
 5
Best Bulge aka Black Rhino
Boulder
V9 7C
 8
The Fukness
Boulder
V9 7C
 4
Smooth Sumac
Boulder
V9-10 7C+
 3
Levitation (formerly The Office…
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Balanced Rock 01. Balanced Ro… > Balanced Rock
 14
V0 4 Boulder
Pearl of the Sea 04. Birthday Talus > Ocean Floor
 4
V2 5+ PG13 Boulder
Lou Reed Arete 01. Balanced Ro… > Lou Reed
 20
V3 6A Boulder
Bunker Arete 02. Horse Rampa… > Bunker
 5
V3 6A PG13 Boulder
Wildwood 13. Mirror Talus > Wildwood
 12
V6 7A Boulder
Don't F With the Bees 14. The Lost &… > Whaler's Rock
 19
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Bulbous Left Center 01. Balanced Ro… > Bulbous
 14
V7 7A+ Boulder
Big Foot Arete 04. Birthday Talus > Bigfoot
 16
V7 7A+ Boulder
The Anvil aka The Cardinal 01. Balanced Ro… > Black Rhino
 4
V7 7A+ Boulder
Basswood 12. Basswood
 9
V7 7A+ Boulder
Bassmaster 12. Basswood
 3
V7 7A+ Boulder
Best Bulge aka Black Rhino 01. Balanced Ro… > Black Rhino
 5
V8 7B PG13 Boulder
The Fukness 04. Birthday Talus > Fukness (aka Heartbreak)
 8
V9 7C Boulder
Smooth Sumac 13. Mirror Talus > Smooth Sumac
 4
V9 7C Boulder
Levitation (formerly The Of… 14. The Lost &… > Levitation (Office Pr…
 3
V9-10 7C+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in East Bluff South »

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