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Elevation: 1,216 ft 371 m
GPS: 43.41477, -89.72535
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 110,429 total · 535/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 25, 2009
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

Description Suggest change

Bouldering above the east side of the Lake, most easily accessed from the South Shore parking lot.  This area is a complicated mosaic of boulder fields and forest with the quartzite layers descending from the promontory above Balanced Rock down toward the North Shore.

These areas are generally shaded first thing in the morning.

Getting There Suggest change

Because of the slanting layers of rock, access to these areas is complicated.  

Some areas are most easily accessed from below, along the railroad tracks:  the lower end of the Mirror Talus, Railroad Amphitheater (popular for roped climbing, and for swimming) and the neighboring talus field, and the Birthday Rocks talus field.

The top of the East Bluff (the whole hill east of the Lake is the East Bluff) is reached by the Balanced Rock trail, and there are a scattering of classic boulder problems right along the trail.

Still other areas are most easily reached from the top of the East Bluff, along the East Bluff trail:  the aptly named Lost & Found boulders, the upper end of the Mirror Talus, Pony Barricade, the deceptively named Horse Rampart boulders, and scattered problems in the cliff lines at the scenic upper rim of the Bluff.

209 Total Climbs

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Location: East Bluff South Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 15
Balanced Rock
Boulder
V1 5
 18
On The Eve
Boulder
V2 5+ PG13
 5
Pearl of the Sea
Boulder
V3 6A
 25
Lou Reed Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 7
The Crusader
Boulder
V4 6B
 15
Muffin Top
Boulder
V6 7A PG13
 11
American Idiots
Boulder
V6-7 7A+ PG13
 6
Roll for Charisma
Boulder
V7- 7A+
 35
Don't F With the Bees
Boulder
V7 7A+
 20
Bulbous Left Center
Boulder
V7 7A+
 22
Big Foot Arete
Boulder
V7 7A+
 14
Basswood
Boulder
V7+ 7A+
 16
Debunked
Boulder
V8 7B PG13
 9
Best Bulge aka Black Rhino
Boulder
V9- 7C
 20
Panic Room
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Balanced Rock 01. Balanced Ro… > Balanced Rock
 15
V0 4 Boulder
On The Eve 13. Mirror Talus > On the Eve
 18
V1 5 Boulder
Pearl of the Sea 04. Birthday Talus > Ocean Floor
 5
V2 5+ PG13 Boulder
Lou Reed Arete 01. Balanced Ro… > Lou Reed
 25
V3 6A Boulder
The Crusader 02. Horse Rampa… > Crusader
 7
V3 6A Boulder
Muffin Top 02. Horse Rampa… > Bunker
 15
V4 6B Boulder
American Idiots 13. Mirror Talus > On the Eve
 11
V6 7A PG13 Boulder
Roll for Charisma 09. Hidden Ledge
 6
V6-7 7A+ PG13 Boulder
Don't F With the Bees 14. The Lost &… > Whaler's Rock
 35
V7- 7A+ Boulder
Bulbous Left Center 01. Balanced Ro… > Bulbous
 20
V7 7A+ Boulder
Big Foot Arete 04. Birthday Talus > Bigfoot
 22
V7 7A+ Boulder
Basswood 12. Basswood
 14
V7 7A+ Boulder
Debunked 02. Horse Rampa… > Bunker
 16
V7+ 7A+ Boulder
Best Bulge aka Black Rhino 01. Balanced Ro… > Black Rhino
 9
V8 7B PG13 Boulder
Panic Room 02. Horse Rampa… > Bunker
 20
V9- 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in East Bluff South »

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