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Routes in Pince Sans Rire

Akelarre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
El Enano de Siberia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Esclava Laboral S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Faders West, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gracias Fina S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
La Alimana de Ocana S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Piton S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Maria Ponte el Arnes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Hay Pico con Lagunas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pince Sans Rire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 2,529 ft
GPS: 42.288, -0.082 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,514 total · 24/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 25, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay
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Description

Some of the finest routes in Rodellar are in this smaller little cave. The best routes range from 5.12- to 5.13 with Pince Sans Rire 5.12c being one of the best routes in the canyon. There are also several easier routes on the left side of the cave.

The cave wraps around a full 180 degrees so there is a north facing wall, which is mostly easier and shorter stuff 5.11 to 5.12-. The west facing portion is home to some very hard long routes which go out the roof, some of which have mid anchors which still puts them in the 5.12+ to 5.13- range. As the cave curves around to face more south is where it really stands out. The wall is 100-120 feet tall and lined with tuffas sections. Starting with Akelarre/Gracias Fina and extending around to Far Faders West. There are 7 or so routes that are all long and fun. This southern facing portion of the cliff goes progressively into the shade created by the steeper cave portion of the wall and is well shaded for a good portion of the day.

There is not a lot of area to hang out so it can seem crowded even though there are plenty of routes.

Getting There

From the trail junction head down into the canyon then up river. Pass the Gran Boveda. When the end of a small rock slide covers the main trail heading up the canyon, look for the cave up on your left or the west side. Hump it up the hill to the cave, you will approach the south facing right side first and can work around to the other side once the cave is reached.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pince Sans Rire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
Pince Sans Rire
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Maria Ponte el Arnes
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pince Sans Rire
 10
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Maria Ponte el Arnes
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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