Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chaos Crag

Duck Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Chaos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mucho Jale T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Description

Chaos Crag is the large formation sitting downhill and south of Torreon and Mexican Breakfast it lies just above ENE of the Frog formation. Chaos has a large west face that is approx, 500 ft wide and 500 ft tall. The WSW is sunny and the route Edge of Chaos lies on the far left side of the formation on a more WNW aspect. The rock is quite good in general and you're almost guaranteed solitude on this formation. Fun adventure climbing!

Getting There

Hike down the La Luz trail from the Crest parking area. I used the old La Luz/Direct route to get down to the forested slope that leads directly to the southern end of the Chaos formation. There is a bit of a climbers trail as you can use the same approach as for Mexican Breakfast if you're coming in from the La Luz Trail. Instead of hiking uphill and east to Mexican Breakfast, hike to the NW and up through a little col between Chaos and a small spire that sits to its south. The approach is about 1:10.

3 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Chaos Crag Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Chaos Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mucho Jale
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Mucho Jale 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Chaos Crag »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
Reed, any idea where your route on Chaos Crag went. I would love to resurrect a good multi-pitch 5.6-5.7. Sep 29, 2009
Dave Hammack and I did the face around 1960-61. The rock was excellent and the climbing was mid 5, maybe 5.6 or 5.7. We were not very imaginative in naming pinnacles. We certainly were not of the ability to do Karl Kiser's route Sep 25, 2009

More About Chaos Crag

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Chaos Crag (7)

Most Popular · Newest