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> Trapps Bouldering
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Nameless area has quite a bit of climbing (more than 20 routes), but almost all of the classics are on its namesake boulder. Marrakesh Express (V6), Nameless Traverse (V2), Nameless Traverse II (V2) and Backside Problem (V0) all reside on the Nameless boulder and should not be missed.
The Nameless boulder is right against Undercliff Road. From the Trapps bridge, walk north on the Undercliff road for 20 or 25 minutes. When you are getting close, you will pass the Andrew boulder which overhangs the carriage road. Walk 100 yards further down the carriage road and you will be there.