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Routes in New Beginnings Wall

Bane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Claim Jumper S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
In Bane S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lucius S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Beginning S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Vision Quest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Washed S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 6,247 ft
GPS: 32.932, -107.235 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,598 total, 26/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Aug 26, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

This is a two tiered wall imediately left of the Bat Cave. The lower wall is slightly overhung on the right and lower angle on the left. The rock on the lower bit of the first pitches is a bit friable but it improves greatly up higher. The second section of the wall above a ledge at 110' is either a big bulging overhang on the left or a 15 degree overhanging headwall on the right which runs into the left edge of the Bat Cave.

Getting There

Follow directions to the Bat Cave but instead of following the fixed lines into the cave, traverse across the base to the bottom of this wall.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Beginnings Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vision Quest
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lucius
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bane
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
In Bane
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Washed
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Claim Jumper
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
New Beginning
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Vision Quest 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Lucius 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bane 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
In Bane 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
White Washed 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Claim Jumper 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
New Beginning 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Beginnings Wall »

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Photos

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
Thanks for the info Lee. My brother thought he might have climbed something on that wall as a warm-up when he was down there once last year with Timmy. The wall and right of the cave looked real good and I was hoping to get back down there this year with a drill(lifetime project?). I'll get a hold of Lance and see if he knows anymore Feb 21, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
As far as I know, there are 2 lines next to each other that were bolted by Lance H and Ian M that star from the ground near what would be the right edge of this area and a third line to the left of these two that does not reach the ground, I was bolting from the ledge down and did not reach the ground. One of the right two lines has seen some amount of cleaning while the other has not.

From the ledge, I bolted the line to the left that climbs the blunt prow and spent a fair bit of time cleaning it, but it probably still needs more. Off the rightish end of the ledge Chris E started bolting a line and made it about half way up the wall or a little more before it started to get late.

As far as I know none of the routes have been climbed, though Lance has been fairly active down there the past couple of years. Feb 19, 2012
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Hey Rich, talk with LeeAB, I think at least one of those is his route. I think they have only been bolted, but not cleaned and sent. Feb 9, 2012
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
So what's the status of the routes on the wall left of the Bat Cave. I saw at least 3 (up to the ledge)and one looked like it had a 2nd pitch (above the ledge). Still being worked? how hard? abandoned? The one past the big holes looks cool (had a bail biner on it) Jan 16, 2012

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