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Areas in Lincoln Crag

First Ledge 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lincoln Crag Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Lower Slab 3 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Middle Ledge 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Upper Cliff 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Description

A shady wet cliff band with lots of moss and growth. Thereare some decent routes and it's worth the stop if you have time to kill.

Getting There

Exit 32 off Int 93; go East (Rt 112, "Kancamangus Highway") for 1.6 miles turn left at sign for Forest Ridge Development (Kancamagus Rec. Road). Go past Lin-Wood Town Park up hill into Forest Ridge. At top hill road bends left and there will be a large stone wall directly in front of you. Park at end in the sports Club parking lot and walk back to the stone wall you just passed. Trail begins at end of wall."

The trail is marked by red markers in the beginning and after going through a rock field you need to follow blue and yellow marked trees.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lincoln Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolhouse Rock
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schoolhouse Rock Lower Slab 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
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Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
I believe it was also covered in the "old" Sykes guidebook "Secrets of the Notch". I know we hiked in there a couple of years ago using (I'm almost certain) "Secrets" to guide us on the approach. Only had an hour or so, so didn't bring gear. Recollection was it was 30-45 min. or so...but of course that was "first time". IMO places like Kinsman Notch offer better possibilities if you're looking for "someplace new". (Kinsman also covered in "Beyond the Notches".) 7 days ago
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Hi Jonathan,

I could be wrong but I think a couple of old, crazy guys just published some information about this area: eaglecliffpub.com :-) May 3, 2017
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
Does anyone have any more info about this place? It gets a couple paragraphs in Green's Rock Climbing New England but no info beyond that. Is there a publicly available topo? Or a guide book that someone can link to? May 3, 2017
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I guess I don't understand why people people are so quick to say negative things about this little climbing area. I have only climbed a handful of routes here but I enjoyed all of them. Granted it is no Cathedral or Echo but it does have some to offer. However everyone is entitled to their opinion, just my personal opinion that this place unfairly gets a bad reputation. May 1, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
So I was just gonna bag on this area a little bit as I have spent a few days here and there over the years. Then I noticed that I started the area. At this point I only remember a good .12a (bolts) with one hard move way right. A good (best at the crag).9+/.10d around the corner to right of this that goes up a great crack/crease feature. And a .10- one move wonder roof crack problem kinda on the left hand side of the right most cliff. Maybe climbed a total of a dozen routes and nothing sticks out. Anyone can have at the descriptions. May 1, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I don't think the description for this area does it justice. Here is my take on it,

Lincoln Crag is comprised of 4 main cliffs. the largest being Lower slab and then three other cliffs that are above the same size (Middle, First, Upper).

Lower Slab is name for the 150 foot tall on the right side but most of the climbing is located to the left on 50 - 60 foot face. The tall slab could use some cleaning but the left side where most of the routes are concentrated is very clean wherever there is a route. The climbs are all generally safe and well protected, and the styles of climbing vary. From crack to face and sport, mixed or trad routes. There is also a large roof that is listed in the Sykes guide as a Project.

Middle Ledge and First Ledge area reasonably clean on all the vertical faces, the low angle routes could use a little love, but are in decent shape. First ledge is hoe to the classic Hunchback Crack .10a a dead vertical finger crack.

Upper ledge could use a good cleaning for sure but the routes there look quality.

Also for the parking you need to park at the Sports Club parking lot. then walk back down the trail to the large stone wall you drove past and the trail leads up behind it. At the first fork branch right over some rocks and the Lower Slab will be on your left. Its impossible to miss it. To reach the other crags walk around the left side of the Lower Slab and up hill and the other crags are up that way. May 1, 2012

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