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Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 791 ft |
| GPS: | 41.148, -76.114 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 49,534 total · 427/month |
| Shared By: | Jarred Cleerdin on Aug 7, 2009 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC |
Description
"Mocanaqua" is the general location title that covers several distinct crags and boulder "gardens" scattered in the hills behind the town of Mocanaqua. The specific crag names are Paradise, The Library, Main Wall, Hawk Rock, and Squirrel Rock, along with quite a few others. There is a bunch of great climbing and fortunately most of it has good legal access.
If you're into history, the region's coal mining heritage is in evidence here in the form of great culm banks, abandoned structures, open mine shafts, etc. Paradise, for example was a dumping ground for this mine waste known as "culm" and untold tons of the stuff got poured right over the top. As you approach the cliff from the river, this culm is in evidence the whole way and you can imagine the carts dumping load after load over the top until the cliff almost disappeared. Lucky for us they stopped, leaving a fifty of sixty foot band exposed. The routes here go up to 5.12+ and there bouldering and highballs galore.
Geologically, the rock is quartzite of the Penobscot formation, and (I think) it's pretty cool that it's the same ridge that has exposures in West Virginia (Seneca) and in New York (The Gunks).
As far as climbing history goes, the first person I know of who started developing these cliffs was Albert Pisaneschi and I'm pretty sure that began in the late seventies/early eighties. For some reason Bob D'Antonio is the name that comes up but you can be sure he contributed a fraction of a percent of what Albert did. My guess is Bob talked, Al did not. Albert never reported his own routes, but he was prolific, climbing 5.13 sport, hard trad, ground up first ascents of hard (A4) nail ups, etc. Yet another "unsung" hero of our sport as his friend Rich Romano would like to say.
Access
Some of the climbing areas and trails here are owned by the Earth Conservancy.
If you're into history, the region's coal mining heritage is in evidence here in the form of great culm banks, abandoned structures, open mine shafts, etc. Paradise, for example was a dumping ground for this mine waste known as "culm" and untold tons of the stuff got poured right over the top. As you approach the cliff from the river, this culm is in evidence the whole way and you can imagine the carts dumping load after load over the top until the cliff almost disappeared. Lucky for us they stopped, leaving a fifty of sixty foot band exposed. The routes here go up to 5.12+ and there bouldering and highballs galore.
Geologically, the rock is quartzite of the Penobscot formation, and (I think) it's pretty cool that it's the same ridge that has exposures in West Virginia (Seneca) and in New York (The Gunks).
As far as climbing history goes, the first person I know of who started developing these cliffs was Albert Pisaneschi and I'm pretty sure that began in the late seventies/early eighties. For some reason Bob D'Antonio is the name that comes up but you can be sure he contributed a fraction of a percent of what Albert did. My guess is Bob talked, Al did not. Albert never reported his own routes, but he was prolific, climbing 5.13 sport, hard trad, ground up first ascents of hard (A4) nail ups, etc. Yet another "unsung" hero of our sport as his friend Rich Romano would like to say.
Access
Some of the climbing areas and trails here are owned by the Earth Conservancy.
Getting There
Driving from Philadelphia or Lehigh valley or New Jersey or New York City, usually faster to take I-80 West to exit 256, then rt 93 north + west about 3 miles, then turn right on rt 239 North and go 7.5 miles north (with several turns) through Wapwallopen to Mocanaqua. (without using rt 11 or visiting Shickshinny).
To the Main Wall from US 11 cross the bridge into Mocanaqua. Follow 239 into town to where 239 makes a 90 turn to the right go straight on SR 3004 instead of following 239.
The parking is a small dirt lot up a mile give or take on the left immediately off the road before the s turns. The trail is on the right of the little parking lot. The Main Wall cliff parallels the road here and is quite close to the road, but nicely screened by the trees.
Or just use Gordon's directions on Google Maps.
To the Main Wall from US 11 cross the bridge into Mocanaqua. Follow 239 into town to where 239 makes a 90 turn to the right go straight on SR 3004 instead of following 239.
The parking is a small dirt lot up a mile give or take on the left immediately off the road before the s turns. The trail is on the right of the little parking lot. The Main Wall cliff parallels the road here and is quite close to the road, but nicely screened by the trees.
Or just use Gordon's directions on Google Maps.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mocanaqua (Shickshinny)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
10 Comments
More About Mocanaqua (Shickshinny)
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Guidebooks (6)
Abovetraffic on Hudson
the old name?
the old Bob D'Antonio?
I may never climb here again but when I can't count on the names
It makes me sound wrong when I'm not
I saw Ski Mini Changed to the Peterskill area
and Ice caves mnt to Sams point both before the climbing was documented
true history is rare and good the old names should /could have been kept Jun 12, 2014
Sacramento, CA
cedar city, utah
If you're into history, the region's coal mining heritage is in evidence here in the form of great culm banks, abandoned structures, open mine shafts, etc. Paradise, for example was a dumping ground for this mine waste known as "culm" and untold tons of the stuff got poured right over the top. As you approach the cliff from the river, this culm is in evidence the whole way and you can imagine the carts dumping load after load over the top until the cliff almost disappeared. Lucky for us they stopped, leaving a fifty of sixty foot band exposed. The routes here go up to 5.12+ and there bouldering and highballs galore.
Geologically, the rock is quartzite of the Penobscot formation, and (I think) it's pretty cool that it's the same ridge that has exposures in West Virginia (Seneca) and in New York (The Gunks).
Jun 25, 2014
cedar city, utah
Sacramento, CA
Pennsylvania
maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=…
Edit: I did not create these directions, but I found them and they were useful to me. Someone else deserves the credit. Jul 8, 2014
PA
The toughest route at the time was a 5.11 with the only bolt on the entire cliff.
The bolt was controversial.
I took a walk through there a few months ago, and it brought back great memories.
Jim from bill wise pro shop taught me there. I remember the pizza route well.
I'm 55 now, but I'm going to get back into the game and see if I can't do a 5.11 again! Jun 20, 2017
Mocanaqua Guidebook App
The guide includes The Library, Main Wall, Paradise, It also has many new routes at Squirrel Rock and some crags near it that where lesser known. Hawk Rock and a bunch of other areas will be added soon.
All the new color photos for every route in Moc will make it a lot easier to distinguish climbs etc. Jul 7, 2017