Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Mocanaqua (Shickshinny)

Boulder "Garden" 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Library, The 5 / 22 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33
Main Wall 9 / 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Paradise 9 / 10 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Elevation: 791 ft
GPS: 41.148, -76.114 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 34,239 total, 337/month
Shared By: Jarred Cleerdin on Aug 7, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp
Getting weather forecast...

Description

"Mocanaqua" is the general location title that covers several distinct crags and boulder "gardens" scattered in the hills behind the town of Mocanaqua. The specific crag names are Paradise, The Library, Main Wall, Hawk Rock, and Squirrel Rock, along with quite a few others. There is a bunch of great climbing and fortunately most of it has good legal access.

If you're into history, the region's coal mining heritage is in evidence here in the form of great culm banks, abandoned structures, open mine shafts, etc. Paradise, for example was a dumping ground for this mine waste known as "culm" and untold tons of the stuff got poured right over the top. As you approach the cliff from the river, this culm is in evidence the whole way and you can imagine the carts dumping load after load over the top until the cliff almost disappeared. Lucky for us they stopped, leaving a fifty of sixty foot band exposed. The routes here go up to 5.12+ and there bouldering and highballs galore.

Geologically, the rock is quartzite of the Penobscot formation, and (I think) it's pretty cool that it's the same ridge that has exposures in West Virginia (Seneca) and in New York (The Gunks).

As far as climbing history goes, the first person I know of who started developing these cliffs was Albert Pisaneschi and I'm pretty sure that began in the late seventies/early eighties. For some reason Bob D'Antonio is the name that comes up but you can be sure he contributed a fraction of a percent of what Albert did. My guess is Bob talked, Al did not. Albert never reported his own routes, but he was prolific, climbing 5.13 sport, hard trad, ground up first ascents of hard (A4) nail ups, etc. Yet another "unsung" hero of our sport as his friend Rich Romano would like to say.

Access

Some of the climbing areas and trails here are owned by the Earth Conservancy.

Getting There

Driving from Philadelphia or Lehigh valley or New Jersey or New York City, usually faster to take I-80 West to exit 256, then rt 93 north + west about 3 miles, then turn right on rt 239 North and go 7.5 miles north (with several turns) through Wapwallopen to Mocanaqua. (without using rt 11 or visiting Shickshinny).

To the Main Wall from US 11 cross the bridge into Mocanaqua. Follow 239 into town to where 239 makes a 90 turn to the right go straight on SR 3004 instead of following 239.

The parking is a small dirt lot up a mile give or take on the left immediately off the road before the s turns. The trail is on the right of the little parking lot. The Main Wall cliff parallels the road here and is quite close to the road, but nicely screened by the trees.

Or just use Gordon's directions on Google Maps.

62 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mocanaqua (Shickshinny)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pizza
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beginner's Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornflake Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Urine Over Your Head
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bullseye
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grey Face
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Expectations
Sport, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I-Beam
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Roofing Madness
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flamer
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darling Dainty Feet
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Generation - 5.12a
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lightning
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunderstud
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pizza Main Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Beginner's Crack Main Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Cornflake Crack Library > Main Block, Back Side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Urine Over Your Head Library > Main Block, Front Side 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Bullseye Main Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stairway to Heaven Library > Rear Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Grey Face Library > Main Block, Back Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Great Expectations Library > Main Block, Back Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
I-Beam Paradise 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Roofing Madness Paradise 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Flamer Library > Main Block, Back Side 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Darling Dainty Feet Library > Main Block, Front Side 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
New Generation - 5.12a Paradise 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Lightning Library > Rear Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Thunderstud Library > Rear Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

We just did a comprehensive guidebook for Mocanaqua:


Mocanaqua Guidebook App

The guide includes The Library, Main Wall, Paradise, It also has many new routes at Squirrel Rock and some crags near it that where lesser known. Hawk Rock and a bunch of other areas will be added soon.

All the new color photos for every route in Moc will make it a lot easier to distinguish climbs etc. Jul 7, 2017
My friends and I climbed here almost every week in the late 70's.
The toughest route at the time was a 5.11 with the only bolt on the entire cliff.
The bolt was controversial.
I took a walk through there a few months ago, and it brought back great memories.
Jim from bill wise pro shop taught me there. I remember the pizza route well.
I'm 55 now, but I'm going to get back into the game and see if I can't do a 5.11 again! Jun 20, 2017
Here is an old TOPO I came across on the interwebs provided by WBCG Aug 22, 2016
Gordon88
Pennsylvania
Gordon88   Pennsylvania
Directions that are helpful. I used them to find the library last weekend:

maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=…

Edit: I did not create these directions, but I found them and they were useful to me. Someone else deserves the credit. Jul 8, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Thanks Karl. Jun 25, 2014
karl kvashay
cedar city, utah
karl kvashay   cedar city, utah
As far as climbing history goes, the first person I know of who started developing these cliffs was Albert Pisaneschi and I'm pretty sure that began in the late seventies/early eighties. For some reason Bob D'antonio is the name that comes up but you can be sure he contributed a fraction of a percent of what Albert did. My guess is Bob talked, Al did not. Albert never reported his own routes, but he was prolific, climbing 5.13 sport, hard trad, ground up first ascents of hard (A4) nail ups, etc. Yet another "unsung" heroe of our sport as his friend Rich Romano would like to say. Jun 25, 2014
karl kvashay
cedar city, utah
karl kvashay   cedar city, utah
"Mocanaqua" is the general location title that covers several distinct crags and boulder "gardens" scattered in the hills behind the town of Mocanaqua. The specific crag names are Paradise, The Library, Main Wall, Hawk Rock, and Squirrel Rock, along with quite a few others. There is a bunch of great climbing and fortunately most of it has good legal access.
If you're into history, the region's coal mining heritage is in evidence here in the form of great culm banks, abandoned structures, open mine shafts, etc. Paradise, for example was a dumping ground for this mine waste known as "culm" and untold tons of the stuff got poured right over the top. As you approach the cliff from the river, this culm is in evidence the whole way and you can imagine the carts dumping load after load over the top until the cliff almost disappeared. Lucky for us they stopped, leaving a fifty of sixty foot band exposed. The routes here go up to 5.12+ and there bouldering and highballs galore.
Geologically, the rock is quartzite of the Penobscot formation, and (I think) it's pretty cool that it's the same ridge that has exposures in West Virginia (Seneca) and in New York (The Gunks).
Jun 25, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
What was the original name of this crag? Jun 13, 2014
Why did the name change? when?
the old name?
the old Bob D'Antonio?
I may never climb here again but when I can't count on the names
It makes me sound wrong when I'm not
I saw Ski Mini Changed to the Peterskill area
and Ice caves mnt to Sams point both before the climbing was documented
true history is rare and good the old names should /could have been kept Jun 12, 2014
kenr  
Driving from Philadelphia or Lehigh valley or New Jersey or New York City, usually faster to take I-80 West to exit 256, then rt 93 north + west about 3 miles, then turn right on rt 239 North and go 7.5 miles north (with several turns) through Wapwallopen to Mocanaqua. (without using rt 11 or visiting Shickshinny). May 24, 2014

More About Mocanaqua (Shickshinny)

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) (45)

Most Popular · Newest