Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Godfather Boulder

As Wicked As It Seems S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Godfather 1 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Godfather 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ol' Roer 714, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Umpalumpa Humpachu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 5,000 ft
Shared By: DavidHH on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Most of the limestone we climb on in Ten Sleep Canyon is Big Horn Dolomite and the Madison tends to be chossy and crumbly. This boulder however, is an absolute stellar chunk of Madison limestone sitting in the forest. This is a great area in the summer since the sun really doesn't come around until late afternoon. Routes are all very good, climbing is juggy and overhanging, makes you ride the pump to the chains. Route from left to right are

Umpalumpa Humpachu .10a
Godfather 1 .10c
Godfather 2 .11a
As Wicked As It Seems .12a
The Ol' Roer 714 .10d

Getting There

These directions are assuming you are heading out of Ten Sleep on Rt. 16 towards Buffalo,WY. Make a right on old road 435. You will pass a campground on your right, then the fish hatchery and a former forest service campground on your left, the road then turns a hard right. Follow after the hard right maybe 200' and you are making a hard left up a switchback, park in the pullout on the left side of this switchback,(see photo). Walk down 20' or so and you will see a trail on the opposite side of the road from where you parked. The trail splits about 20' into it and you take the right path. Go down 500'
or so and you will come to the river, cross it and follow a good trail up for about 10-15 minutes. You will walk right into this boulder it's hard to miss.

5 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Godfather Boulder Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Godfather Boulder

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in The Godfather Boulder »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
A really fun wall if you want a break from the longer climbs of Tensleep. None of these routes are 60 ft. in length as mentioned in most of the descriptions. More like 45 ft. Oct 3, 2016
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
Really reminds me of the cobble climbing in Maple Canyon, great routes on this one! Sep 12, 2016

More About The Godfather Boulder

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within The Godfather Boulder (16)

Most Popular · Newest