Elevation: 10,616 ft
GPS: 39.66, -105.605 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 170,290 total · 1,244/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jul 24, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US. Details

Description

The Mt. Evans areas are quickly gaining recognition as some of the best bouldering in the country. Numerous world-class blocks litter the sprawling slopes of Colorado's most accessible 14-er, and if not for a grueling, "never-again" approach, this would be one of the most popular boulder fields in Colorado. The rock is stellar, highly featured granite, with excellent, rough texture, numerous incut edges, and the odd Tuolumne-esque knob.

Though the quality of the climbing is undeniable, there are numerous drawbacks. The approach is truly heinous for the most accessible boulders, and gets worse for the more remote areas. All of the blocks are situated over 10,000 feet (some higher), which makes the climbing season tragically short. Even during the peak summer season, days are often cut short by sudden thunderstorms, high winds, and snowfall. The sun is intense and the air is thin. Any injury is potentially serious as help is far away and retreat is long & involved. Mosquitoes and other pests are ubiquitous.

There are numerous distinct bouldering areas scattered across the slopes of the mountain, with the most popular being those along the Chicago Lakes Basin, a beautiful glacial valley northeast of the summit. Creatively named Area A, Area B, Area C & Area D, these areas are the most accessible and offer the bulk of the developed boulders. Most of the well-known problems, such as the Dali, Gorillas in the Mist, All Dogs Go to Evans, and Timeline, are found in Areas A & B. Excellent problems can also be found at Lincoln Lake, which is south of the paved highway CO 5.

The vast majority of the boulders are located within the Mount Evans Wilderness Area. Please read the access bulletin and abide by the instructions. This is an alpine environment! Inclement weather moves in fast, and approaching storm systems are often hidden behind the mountain until they are right on top of you. Be prepared for any conditions, to include snow & lightning. Dehydration occurs more quickly at higher altitudes; bring twice as much water as you think you'll need.

Getting There

Mt. Evans is located ~30 miles west of downtown Denver. Take I-70 to the town of Idaho Springs, then follow CO 103 towards Mt Evans. For Areas A & C, park at the Echo Lake Picnic area, just west of mile marker 13. For Area D, follow the summit road (CO 5, $15/vehicle entrance fee may apply) to Summit Lake.

137 Total Climbs

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Location: Mt. Evans Bouldering Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Evans Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5 R
 46
Timeline
Boulder, Alpine
V1 5
 35
Last of the Ohitians
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
 154
The Ladder
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
 27
Puddle Jumper
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
 30
Dark Crystal
Boulder, Alpine
V5 6C PG13
 32
Maker's Mark
Boulder, Alpine
V5 6C
 31
Cherry Top Rip (Name Unknown)
Boulder, Alpine
V6 7A
 46
The Dali Stand Start
Boulder, Alpine
V6 7A
 29
Downtrail Face
Boulder, Alpine
V7 7A+
 5
Powder Keg
Boulder, Alpine
V8 7B
 21
Seurat
Boulder, Alpine
V8 7B
 5
Dream Snatcher
Boulder, Alpine
V8+ 7B+
 44
The Dali Sit Down Start
Boulder, Alpine
V9+ 7C
 23
Bierstadt
Boulder, Alpine
V12 8A+
 10
No More Greener Grasses
Boulder, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Timeline Area A > Bierstadt Area
 46
V1 5 R Boulder, Alpine
Last of the Ohitians Area A > Bierstadt Area
 35
V1 5 Boulder, Alpine
The Ladder Area A > Bierstadt Area
 154
V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Puddle Jumper Area A > Dali Area
 27
V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Dark Crystal Area A > Bierstadt Area
 30
V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Maker's Mark Area A > Bierstadt Area
 32
V5 6C PG13 Boulder, Alpine
Cherry Top Rip (Name Unknown) Area A > Seurat Area
 31
V5 6C Boulder, Alpine
The Dali Stand Start Area A > Dali Area
 46
V6 7A Boulder, Alpine
Downtrail Face Gateway Boulder
 29
V6 7A Boulder, Alpine
Powder Keg Lincoln Lake
 5
V7 7A+ Boulder, Alpine
Seurat Area A > Seurat Area
 21
V8 7B Boulder, Alpine
Dream Snatcher Lincoln Lake
 5
V8 7B Boulder, Alpine
The Dali Sit Down Start Area A > Dali Area
 44
V8+ 7B+ Boulder, Alpine
Bierstadt Area A > Bierstadt Area
 23
V9+ 7C Boulder, Alpine
No More Greener Grasses Area A > Dali Area
 10
V12 8A+ Boulder, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Evans Bouldering »

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