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Areas in Mt. Evans Bouldering

Area A 0 / 0 / 0 / 101 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 101 / 101
Gateway Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 6
Laying In Wait Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Lincoln Lake 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Roadside Sector 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4

Description

The Mt Evans areas are quickly gaining recognition as some of the best bouldering in the country. Numerous world-class blocks litter the sprawling slopes of Colorado’s most accessible 14-er, and if not for a grueling, ‘never-again’ approach, this would be one of the most popular boulder fields in Colorado. The rock is stellar, highly featured granite, with excellent, rough texture, numerous incut edges, and the odd Tuolumne-esque knob.

Though the quality of the climbing is undeniable, there are numerous drawbacks. The approach is truly heinous for the most accessible boulders, and gets worse for the more remote areas. All of the blocks are situated over 10’000 feet (some higher), which makes the climbing season tragically short. Even during the peak summer season, days are often cut short by sudden thunderstorms, high winds, and snowfall. The sun is intense and the air is thin. Any injury is potentially serious as help is far away and retreat is long & involved. Mosquitoes and other pests are ubiquitous.

There are numerous distinct bouldering areas scattered across the slopes of the mountain, with the most popular being those along the Chicago Lakes Basin, a beautiful glacial valley northeast of the summit. Creatively named Area A, Area B, Area C & Area D, these areas are the most accessible and offer the bulk of the developed boulders. Most of the well-known problems, such as the Dali, Gorillas in the Mist, All Dogs Go to Evans, and Timeline, are found in Areas A & B. Excellent problems can also be found at Lincoln Lake, which is south of the paved highway CO-5.

The vast majority of the boulders are located within the Mount Evans Wilderness Area. Please read the access bulletin and abide by the instructions. This is an alpine environment! Inclement weather moves in fast, and approaching storm systems are often hidden behind the mountain until they are right on top of you. Be prepared for any conditions, to include snow & lightning. Dehydration occurs more quickly at higher altitudes; bring twice as much water as you think you’ll need.
The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber Details

Getting There

Mt Evans is located ~30 miles west of downtown Denver. Take I-70 to the town of Idaho Springs, then follow CO-103 towards Mt Evans. For Areas A – C, park at the Echo Lake Picnic area, just west of mile marker 13. For Area D, follow the summit road (CO-5, $10/vehicle entrance fee may apply)to Summit Lake.

112 Total Climbs

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Location: Mt. Evans Bouldering Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Evans Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5 R
Timeline
Boulder, Alpine
V1 5
Last of the Ohitians
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
The Ladder
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+ R
Canvas
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
Puddle Jumper
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
Dark Crystal
Boulder, Alpine
V5 6C PG13
Maker's Mark
Boulder, Alpine
V5 6C
Cherry Top Rip (Name Unknown)
Boulder, Alpine
V6 7A
The Dali Stand Start
Boulder, Alpine
V6 7A
Downtrail Face
Boulder, Alpine
V8 7B
Seurat
Boulder, Alpine
V8+ 7B+
The Dali Sit Down Start
Boulder, Alpine
V9+ 7C
Bierstadt
Boulder, Alpine
V12 8A+
No More Greener Grasses
Boulder, Alpine
V14 8B+
Big Worm
Boulder, Alpine
Timeline Area A > Bierstadt Area V1 5 R Boulder, Alpine
Last of the Ohitians Area A > Bierstadt Area V1 5 Boulder, Alpine
The Ladder Area A > Bierstadt Area V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Canvas Area A > Bierstadt Area V2 5+ R Boulder, Alpine
Puddle Jumper Area A > Dali Area V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Dark Crystal Area A > Bierstadt Area V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Maker's Mark Area A > Bierstadt Area V5 6C PG13 Boulder, Alpine
Cherry Top Rip (Name Unknown) Area A > Seurat Area V5 6C Boulder, Alpine
The Dali Stand Start Area A > Dali Area V6 7A Boulder, Alpine
Downtrail Face Gateway Boulder V6 7A Boulder, Alpine
Seurat Area A > Seurat Area V8 7B Boulder, Alpine
The Dali Sit Down Start Area A > Dali Area V8+ 7B+ Boulder, Alpine
Bierstadt Area A > Bierstadt Area V9+ 7C Boulder, Alpine
No More Greener Grasses Area A > Dali Area V12 8A+ Boulder, Alpine
Big Worm Area A > Dali Area V14 8B+ Boulder, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Evans Bouldering »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Found an iPhone just past Beirstadt Boulder on Friday July 15. I charged it and turned it on, maybe find my iPhone will work. If the owner sees this comment, respond with the phone color and the dog in the background. I'd be happy to get you your phone. Cheers. Jul 17, 2016
SusanO  
Went Bouldering in the Beirstadt area (area A) this past Sunday 6/9/13 and lost a royal blue, Patagonia, light weight, puffy jacket. Either someone walked off with it by mistake or it was stolen (lame) from a velcro pocket in my crash pad that was at the warm-up problem "The Ladder". Please respond if you have any info. There is no way it fell out of my pad as it was in a velcro pouch, and there was someone walking behind me the whole way out. Thanks! Jun 11, 2013
Mikeco
Golden, CO
Mikeco   Golden, CO
Please consider not using chalk on the boulders that are near the trail or lakes. Other wilderness users may find the chalk marks distasteful, which can lead to complaints and regulations on climbers. Despite getting a good amount of traffic, the Chicago Lakes area still has a sense of pristine, alpine beauty. And yes, I'm a climber and boulderer, but I don't like to see these boulders chalked. Most climbers wouldn't want to see a hiker spray paint his name on a boulder, so perhaps boulderers might consider whether chalking the boulders is similarly offensive. Aug 3, 2012
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Joe, the snow is not a problem but the trail is kind of a pain owing to blown down trees. It's not a big deal. Area A is going to be too hot soon though. Jun 1, 2012
Anyone been up to Area A yet this season? Relatively clear of snow? Jun 1, 2012
Jamie Emerson's new bouldering guide to RMNP and Mt.Evans is at the printer. We are air freighting some advance copies for pre-purchases. If you order now, you can get a free printable eBook and get an early copy in about three weeks. Supplies will be limited. The bulk shipment will follow by a few weeks. www.sharpendbooks.com Jul 12, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Found a chalk bucket today at Mount Evans Area A. ID it and likely location, and I will get it to you. Jun 9, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Boulderers' conduct off the boulders will become an increasingly important issue for land managers, that's for sure. I agree it is hard to call people out on their conduct since nobody wants to be accused of being a dick. But it's definitely coming to that. There are respectful ways to boulder and disrespectful ways, and I hope a consensus is emerging, just like with pad stashing, that certain kinds of conduct are just not acceptable anymore. Dogs, noise, trash, excessive chalk use, and crowds are just a few of these habits. Being a "good" boulderer justifies nothing that disrespects the environment, the rock, or the people around you. May 28, 2010
Helldorado
Boulder, CO
Helldorado   Boulder, CO
Went here last summer, hoping for a quiet day of bouldering in a nice setting. I was greeted by several dogs and big, loud "elite" crews that didn't seem to mind painting huge tick marks, shouting beta, and throwing cigarette butts on the ground. Is an area "pristine" if everyone and their brother knows about it? I think not. May 27, 2010
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
I've got no problems with putting it up as stated before, I was just surprised at the change in attitude I guess since I hadn't been back in so long as I figured it was already getting over run. Aug 6, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I think the consensus has changed towards providing accurate helpful information, especially after the Horan guide was published. I agree that the impact was substantial enough with just word of mouth, but I don't see the traffic really getting much worse with MP's info being added. Both Evans and RMNP (which I wrote up) are now pretty much out of fashion at this point, and I am fairly sure that nobody approves of pad stashing anywhere anymore. I think now it's better to have accurate descriptions of boulders and ample explanations of acceptable and unacceptable user practices provided along with that. Aug 5, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
I'm shocked! I thought everyone and their mom was against letting information leak in this area. That's why I never put it up. People seemed to be vexed even when you mentioned the area a few years ago when it was first blowing up in popularity. We should tell everyone about areas B, C, D, the Arials, and Lincolin park too while we're at it maybe then we can stash enough pads to get Mt. Evans closed to climbing all together! I was personally asked to keep my mouth shut about the area a few years ago, by people associated with the NFS.

Don't get me wrong, I love documenting areas and making great finds accessable to other people. I'm just really surprised I guess, considering I stopped going to the area when all the commotion was going on just to try to prevent it from getting restricted or shut down. I've not been back in over 2 years and I live less then 1/2 an hour away! Now everyone and their mother will be there impacting it....

Thoughts? Have things changed that much in a few years?

BTW Timeline is classic for the grade IMO get on it! Aug 5, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Great work on writing up these boulders! Jul 24, 2009

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