Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Lower Pumphouse Wash

Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon

Description

Short cragging on sandstone in a beautiful, shady canyon. Mostly sport, but a few trad routes also. Rock quality ranges from very good to not so good. This is a nice place to beat the heat when the rest of Sedona is baking hot.

To the best of my knowledge, most routes were put up by Dave Pastor and are unnamed. If anyone has more info, please contribute anything you can provide.

Getting There

Access is from 89a, where Pumphouse Wash enters Oak Creek Canyon.

From Sedona: drive North up 89a (towards Flagstaff) to the bottom of the switchbacks and park. There is a small sign for Pumphouse Wash on the right.

From Flagstaff: drive South on 89a (towards Sedona) to the bottom of the switchbacks. The switchbacks start immediately after the Oak Creek Overlook. There is a small sign for Pumphouse Wash on the left.

Once at the parking area, hike & boulder-hop up-canyon for 5-10 minutes until routes start appearing. The first routes are a hard to miss splitter crack with 2 bolts on the right and 2 sport climbs next to each other in a corner on the left.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Unnamed 5.8 sport
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Unnamed 5.9 sport
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Emily Prime
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 1
Snakeboy
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
Unamed Arete
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Unamed Cove 5.10
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Prominent Arete - Unknown 13
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Unnamed 5.11a mixed
Trad, Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1
Unamed Chimney A.K.A. Bertha 5.5
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Unamed 5.10+
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Unamed 5.10c
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Unnamed 5.10a sport
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
the Wave - Unnamed 3
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
The Little Things
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Tap It
Trad, Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 12
Centerfold
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 2
Ready to Rumble A.K.A. Miss Nove…
Trad, Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 24
Unnamed 5.10 crack.
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unnamed 5.8 sport
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Unnamed 5.9 sport
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Emily Prime
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Snakeboy
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Unamed Arete
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Unamed Cove 5.10
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Prominent Arete - Unknown 13
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Unnamed 5.11a mixed
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Unamed Chimney A.K.A. Bert…
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Unamed 5.10+
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Unamed 5.10c
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Unnamed 5.10a sport
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
the Wave - Unnamed 3
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Little Things
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Tap It
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Centerfold
 12
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Ready to Rumble A.K.A. Miss…
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Sport
Unnamed 5.10 crack.
 24
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Through the cove
[Hide Photo] Through the cove
Route just after the cove.
[Hide Photo] Route just after the cove.
5.10 wall
[Hide Photo] 5.10 wall
5.10 Wall
[Hide Photo] 5.10 Wall
The famous 5.10 wall.
[Hide Photo] The famous 5.10 wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This place is gorgeous but I'll never go back unless I'm going just for a hike. First of all, the sand stone is soft and nearly every bolt was turned, spinning, or already ripped out.. Talk about death trap. Second, because of how soft it is, nearly every hold was covered in sandy dirt, making some holds virtually useless. Third, there's little variation with only 2 good areas to set up. And last but not least the approach is very rough going through the boulder-strewn wash. Very fun hopping around with little gear, but I can't imagine having to hike through that with a broken leg, bad knees, or full packs. As for shade, we went in late June and the Ten Wall is in full sun between 1 and 3:30. It's a deep canyon so there's always great shade somewhere. Temps were perfect in the 80s with a nice breeze. Like I said, the scenery was spectacular but the climbing was nothing to write home about.

All in all, there were a few fun routes but I would not recommend this site to anyone especially beginners and will not be going back. Jun 28, 2013
Austin Kaiser
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] This crag is a gem. After spending most of my climbing career (short as its been) at the popular Flagstaff and Sedona crags,it was great to get out to a less-trafficked local crag on some less-trafficked rock. My group and I loved it.

All of the anchors and bolts we found were in good condition, save Emily Prime (5.9), whose anchor was dangerously rusty. The MP page contains good descirptions and photos, though the routes are unsorted and many routes are missing from the page. I've submitted a sorting of the routes to admins/MP.

Among the missing routes are a short, overhung route just right of Unnamed Cove 5.10 (left side heading up-canyon), a short face/arete right/upcanyon of Prominent Arete--unknown 13 (left side heading up canyon), a face climb about 150 feet up-canyon from the 5.10 wall (right side heading up-canon), and the two left-most climbs on the 5.10 wall (right side heading up-canyon). There are likely other routes missing from MP but these are the ones I can recall and accurately describe. I hope that the FAs don't mind me sharing, and I hope that they can contribute!

On top of the quality sport routes, there are many short walls that look like they'd be fun boulders that would clean up with traffic. Jul 5, 2018
Nolan B
Sedona, AZ
[Hide Comment] Anyone know what the route next door left of the unnamed 5.10 crack is on the arete? Jun 26, 2019