Elevation: 4,500 ft
GPS: 35.026, -111.733 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,599 total · 92/month
Shared By: Mike on Jul 15, 2009 with updates from Austin Kaiser
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Short cragging on sandstone in a beautiful, shady canyon. Mostly sport, but a few trad routes also. Rock quality ranges from very good to not so good. This is a nice place to beat the heat when the rest of Sedona is baking hot.

To the best of my knowledge, most routes were put up by Dave Pastor and are unnamed. If anyone has more info, please contribute anything you can provide.

Getting There

Access is from 89a, where Pumphouse Wash enters Oak Creek Canyon.

From Sedona: drive North up 89a (towards Flagstaff) to the bottom of the switchbacks and park. There is a small sign for Pumphouse Wash on the right.

From Flagstaff: drive South on 89a (towards Sedona) to the bottom of the switchbacks. The switchbacks start immediately after the Oak Creek Overlook. There is a small sign for Pumphouse Wash on the left.

Once at the parking area, hike & boulder-hop up-canyon for 5-10 minutes until routes start appearing. The first routes are a hard to miss splitter crack with 2 bolts on the right and 2 sport climbs next to each other in a corner on the left.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Pumphouse Wash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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This place is gorgeous but I'll never go back unless I'm going just for a hike. First of all, the sand stone is soft and nearly every bolt was turned, spinning, or already ripped out.. Talk about death trap. Second, because of how soft it is, nearly every hold was covered in sandy dirt, making some holds virtually useless. Third, there's little variation with only 2 good areas to set up. And last but not least the approach is very rough going through the boulder-strewn wash. Very fun hopping around with little gear, but I can't imagine having to hike through that with a broken leg, bad knees, or full packs. As for shade, we went in late June and the Ten Wall is in full sun between 1 and 3:30. It's a deep canyon so there's always great shade somewhere. Temps were perfect in the 80s with a nice breeze. Like I said, the scenery was spectacular but the climbing was nothing to write home about.

All in all, there were a few fun routes but I would not recommend this site to anyone especially beginners and will not be going back. Jun 28, 2013
Austin Kaiser
Flagstaff, AZ
Austin Kaiser   Flagstaff, AZ
This crag is a gem. After spending most of my climbing career (short as its been) at the popular Flagstaff and Sedona crags,it was great to get out to a less-trafficked local crag on some less-trafficked rock. My group and I loved it.

All of the anchors and bolts we found were in good condition, save Emily Prime (5.9), whose anchor was dangerously rusty. The MP page contains good descirptions and photos, though the routes are unsorted and many routes are missing from the page. I've submitted a sorting of the routes to admins/MP.

Among the missing routes are a short, overhung route just right of Unnamed Cove 5.10 (left side heading up-canyon), a short face/arete right/upcanyon of Prominent Arete--unknown 13 (left side heading up canyon), a face climb about 150 feet up-canyon from the 5.10 wall (right side heading up-canon), and the two left-most climbs on the 5.10 wall (right side heading up-canyon). There are likely other routes missing from MP but these are the ones I can recall and accurately describe. I hope that the FAs don't mind me sharing, and I hope that they can contribute!

On top of the quality sport routes, there are many short walls that look like they'd be fun boulders that would clean up with traffic. Jul 5, 2018