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The Ultimates

Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Upper Pumphouse Wash

Description

The Ultimates area is located in Pumphouse Wash, a beautiful tributary of Oak Creek Canyon. It offers many sandstone trad routes and a few sport lines, with potential for more, and features handful of very high quality routes. The setting is sublime; a high-desert canyon with big sandstone walls, surrounded by a giant ponderosa pine forest. The canyon is often mostly dry, but of course in wet weather it can be raging.

The area was, to my knowledge, discovered for climbing in the mid 1980's by several prominent climbers of the time, including: John Mattson, Jim Haisley, Tim & Larry Coats, Stan Mish, Steve Grossman, and Paul Davidson. They put up some of the classic crack lines, like Ultimate Dihedral, White Wedding, and the mega-classic Ultimate Fingercrack. Although the area was infrequently visited, occasional waves of development have occurred over the years, and it seems to be ramping up again.

Getting There

NOTE: For best directions with no history or fluff, skip down to the last paragraph.

There have been many ways that people have accessed The Ultimates area over the years, though none would be considered easy. My first time there, we just took the first forest service road North of The Overlook & drove until it ended on the canyon rim. We then found a gully & bushwhacked down. You can still access it this way, though there is now a trail to make it easier. People have also traditionally hiked up Pumphouse Wash from the bottom of the switchbacks on highway 89A, which is both incredibly beautiful and a very long slog.

More recently climbers have found easier (though certainly not easy) access points. In the mid 2000's a 2 pitch route called Ultimate Frisbee was established with bolted belay stations, and some climbers preferred to access the area by rappelling in (2 raps) and climbing out. If you choose to do this, take I-17 and exit at Newman Park, drive about 2 miles then turn right, follow this about a mile til the canyon is in view. Park at cairns and hike 0.07mi to the rap station, which I'm told is located at: N35*02.158 W111*42.825.

Most climbers these days use the 'Secret Passage' approach established by Darren Mabe in 2013/2014. To do this, take I-17 South from Flagstaff for about 10 miles or so. Exit right at Newman Park Road (exit 328 I think) and drive roughly west for about 2.5 miles to a right turn on forest road 253G. Follow this .8 miles to the parking spot. The GPS coordinates, I'm told, are: N35.038; W111.714 . Once there, follow the topo below, created by Darren Mabe. For higher resolution, see the original photo submitted by Darren, located in the pictures below. This is the preferred access for many people.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Water sculpted coconino.
[Hide Photo] Water sculpted coconino.
Nice overview from the east rim.
[Hide Photo] Nice overview from the east rim.
Route topo and my secret passage approach into the Ultimates from Newman Park exit of I-17. The log noted north of the parking (.8mi on 253G) is not there anymore though there is usually a cairn. If you are under powerlines you went too far. When hiking down the hill, aim for the 'treenis' off to your right (drawn on map) and faint trail will appear. Not all routes shown.
[Hide Photo] Route topo and my secret passage approach into the Ultimates from Newman Park exit of I-17. The log noted north of the parking (.8mi on 253G) is not there anymore though there is usually a cairn. I…
Inside The Secret Passage.
[Hide Photo] Inside The Secret Passage.
The Ultimate Finger Crack area. From L to R: Ultimate Traverse (red), Ultimate Finger Crack (yellow), Twist of Fate (purple), Ultimate Dirty Sanchez (orange), Semi-ultimatic (green), Ultimarete (blue)
[Hide Photo] The Ultimate Finger Crack area. From L to R: Ultimate Traverse (red), Ultimate Finger Crack (yellow), Twist of Fate (purple), Ultimate Dirty Sanchez (orange), Semi-ultimatic (green), Ultimarete (blue)
Dropping down the fixed line on the secret passage approach
[Hide Photo] Dropping down the fixed line on the secret passage approach
Top of secret passage. Hard to miss if you're looking for it and on the trail.
[Hide Photo] Top of secret passage. Hard to miss if you're looking for it and on the trail.
another fine fall day down in mexican pocket
[Hide Photo] another fine fall day down in mexican pocket
from left to right: Ultimate OW, Ultimate Dihedral, and the Ultimator. Artec climbing UD. Photo taken from Young Guns.
[Hide Photo] from left to right: Ultimate OW, Ultimate Dihedral, and the Ultimator. Artec climbing UD. Photo taken from Young Guns.
A beautiful Sendtember day in the Ultimates. Ultimate Finger Crack is located on the right wall of the big slot. The steep splitter is Twist of Fate, and continues in the wide corner above.<br>
Photo: Jacob Dolence
[Hide Photo] A beautiful Sendtember day in the Ultimates. Ultimate Finger Crack is located on the right wall of the big slot. The steep splitter is Twist of Fate, and continues in the wide corner above. Photo:…
Hike upstream from UFC and you will find this route on the right just around the corner from the overhanging swooping white/orange wall.  This is right before the canyon opens up and before James Canyon's mouth.<br>
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Route is on east side facing north.  Crack to 5 bolts.<br>
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Any info?<br>
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There are also three bolted face climbs up the grey slab climber's left of this route in the photo.  They all face north as well and are in a gully.  They look good!
[Hide Photo] Hike upstream from UFC and you will find this route on the right just around the corner from the overhanging swooping white/orange wall. This is right before the canyon opens up and before James C…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lucas Barth
Moab, UT
[Hide Comment] Maybe I missed something, but rapping in on Ultimate Frisbee was not straightforward. We didn't find the top of first pitch anchor so ended up doing some shenanigans/downclimbing to get to the ground. I would recommend the secret passage approach as shown in the drawing from Darren, though this also may not be easy to find the first time from the top. May 7, 2020
[Hide Comment] Correct Lucas. The UF rap sucks.

I had Cairns marking trail in to secret passage that seem to have disappeared over the years May 7, 2020
Mike
Phoenix
[Hide Comment] I just saw this page, and it's obvious that I haven't updated it in way too long! I haven't used the UF rap in a very long time, and switched to Darren's 'secret passage' approach probably 7 or 8 years ago. I'll try to update it soon.

Edit: updated! May 8, 2020
Shelby Kincaid
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] Mike, the trail right now is the best I’ve ever seen it. We have been making some improvements, starting last summer. Would definitely recommend it over the UF rap. May 10, 2020
[Hide Comment] For a pretty ultimate day, consider the following linkup. It's nice because they go in order of difficulty, as well as walking (no backtracking back and forth). If you climb them in this order you'll be in the shade all day! The attached grades, btw, are just my suggestions; others may feel different.

1. Old Tomato (11a)
2. Ultimate Dihedral (11b)
3. Ultimate Finger Crack (11c)
4. Ultimarete (11d/12a)
5. Twist of Fate (12a/b) Jun 21, 2020