The Ultimates
Arizona
> Northern Arizona
> Flagstaff Area
> Upper Pumphouse Wash
Description
The Ultimates area is located in Pumphouse Wash, a beautiful tributary of Oak Creek Canyon. It offers many sandstone trad routes and a few sport lines, with potential for more, and features handful of very high quality routes. The setting is sublime; a high-desert canyon with big sandstone walls, surrounded by a giant ponderosa pine forest. The canyon is often mostly dry, but of course in wet weather it can be raging.
The area was, to my knowledge, discovered for climbing in the mid 1980's by several prominent climbers of the time, including: John Mattson, Jim Haisley, Tim & Larry Coats, Stan Mish, Steve Grossman, and Paul Davidson. They put up some of the classic crack lines, like Ultimate Dihedral, White Wedding, and the mega-classic Ultimate Fingercrack. Although the area was infrequently visited, occasional waves of development have occurred over the years, and it seems to be ramping up again.
Getting There
NOTE: For best directions with no history or fluff, skip down to the last paragraph.
There have been many ways that people have accessed The Ultimates area over the years, though none would be considered easy. My first time there, we just took the first forest service road North of The Overlook & drove until it ended on the canyon rim. We then found a gully & bushwhacked down. You can still access it this way, though there is now a trail to make it easier. People have also traditionally hiked up Pumphouse Wash from the bottom of the switchbacks on highway 89A, which is both incredibly beautiful and a very long slog.
More recently climbers have found easier (though certainly not easy) access points. In the mid 2000's a 2 pitch route called Ultimate Frisbee was established with bolted belay stations, and some climbers preferred to access the area by rappelling in (2 raps) and climbing out. If you choose to do this, take I-17 and exit at Newman Park, drive about 2 miles then turn right, follow this about a mile til the canyon is in view. Park at cairns and hike 0.07mi to the rap station, which I'm told is located at: N35*02.158 W111*42.825.
Most climbers these days use the 'Secret Passage' approach established by Darren Mabe in 2013/2014. To do this, take I-17 South from Flagstaff for about 10 miles or so. Exit right at Newman Park Road (exit 328 I think) and drive roughly west for about 2.5 miles to a right turn on forest road 253G. Follow this .8 miles to the parking spot. The GPS coordinates, I'm told, are: N35.038; W111.714 . Once there, follow the topo below, created by Darren Mabe. For higher resolution, see the original photo submitted by Darren, located in the pictures below. This is the preferred access for many people.
[Hide Photo] Route topo and my secret passage approach into the Ultimates from Newman Park exit of I-17. The log noted north of the parking (.8mi on 253G) is not there anymore though there is usually a cairn. I…
[Hide Photo] Inside The Secret Passage.
[Hide Photo] The Ultimate Finger Crack area. From L to R: Ultimate Traverse (red), Ultimate Finger Crack (yellow), Twist of Fate (purple), Ultimate Dirty Sanchez (orange), Semi-ultimatic (green), Ultimarete (blue)
[Hide Photo] Dropping down the fixed line on the secret passage approach
[Hide Photo] Top of secret passage. Hard to miss if you're looking for it and on the trail.
[Hide Photo] another fine fall day down in mexican pocket
[Hide Photo] from left to right: Ultimate OW, Ultimate Dihedral, and the Ultimator. Artec climbing UD. Photo taken from Young Guns.
[Hide Photo] A beautiful Sendtember day in the Ultimates. Ultimate Finger Crack is located on the right wall of the big slot. The steep splitter is Twist of Fate, and continues in the wide corner above. Photo:…
[Hide Photo] Hike upstream from UFC and you will find this route on the right just around the corner from the overhanging swooping white/orange wall. This is right before the canyon opens up and before James C…
Moab, UT
I had Cairns marking trail in to secret passage that seem to have disappeared over the years May 7, 2020
Phoenix
Edit: updated! May 8, 2020
Flagstaff, AZ
1. Old Tomato (11a)
2. Ultimate Dihedral (11b)
3. Ultimate Finger Crack (11c)
4. Ultimarete (11d/12a)
5. Twist of Fate (12a/b) Jun 21, 2020