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Routes in 7.2.2 - The Dick

Project TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Schu Horn TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 1,315 ft
GPS: 43.414, -89.716 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,266 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jul 9, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

Description

Most overhanging piece of rock (that isn't a Boulder Problem) in the park. Mainly dry in the rain. A few routes are on it with a few variations of these routes

Getting There

Above Birthday Rocks. Go to the top of Birthday Crack and look behind you, can't miss it. TR is difficult to set, there are some pieces in a boulder leaning up against the tower on the back side and some more way back on a short wall.

2 Total Climbs

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Location: 7.2.2 - The Dick Change
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Photos

Ian CB  
I have been meaning to check this one out actually. Thanks for the reminder. Apr 16, 2017
You changed it back to "The Dick"! Lame. Someone should go try this...Ian CB?!?!!? Apr 14, 2017
"Phallus in the Talus" will do ;)

Doomsday?!?!? I'm pretty excited. I'm told it's a "magical" day, not a doomsday. Only a few years until she will be able to belay! Apr 26, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Nick, you always have to be 'that guy', don't you. Funny. Shall I change it to the Phallus in the Talus? That was pretty damn funny.

Pretty sure Jay is out climbing his latest 5.14 project unlike the rest of us wanking on line.

PS. As your doomsday approaches, we should come up with a time you and Riley come over and the girls can talk baby stuff, and we can throw a few back and load your purple jeep up with baby schwag that we'll (hopefully) never need again. Apr 25, 2011
Jay, I find the name "The Dick" degrading and offensive to men. Please change it.

If I can't call some FIB a "pussy" on MP how can we, as gentleman, call this "The Dick". How uncouth! Apr 25, 2011
Tom Petraitis
Evanston, IL
Tom Petraitis   Evanston, IL
Nick you are one crazy mf! Why not just lead Shu Horn and set an anchor?? Sep 21, 2010
Tom, we were attempting the left side of the overhanging face with very little luck. The right crack to ledge is "Shu Horn".

I did a sketchy solo to the top to set TR but the gear was actually on the wall behind it! Sep 17, 2010
Tom Petraitis
Evanston, IL
Tom Petraitis   Evanston, IL
I've been looking at this tower for a few weeks. What line or lines are being explored? And, don't you need to trad up the back side to set up a TR? Sep 17, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Are we going to have to rename "Big Bud" "Bushmills" and "Kingsbury Cruise"?

Ya know, you call it what you call it. Either other people know what you are saying, or history forgets what you were yacking about. Dec 11, 2009
Yep, Steve, it's REAL big! Or was that his balls? I can't recall... Dec 8, 2009
It seems like a pretty good site for people to promote themselves. So, why not a hold company? Dec 8, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
I think the Phallus is better than both. Phallus. What a funny word. But I guess history trumps funny. Dec 8, 2009
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I'd have to say "The Dick" is way better than "NU Tower" Dec 8, 2009
C'mon Jay! "NU Tower" is definitely better than "The Dick", help a bro out! Dec 8, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
While the name may not be classy, it is the only moniker I have ever heard attached to this formation. I have decided to use the name for historical purposes. If some old-schoolers have heard it called by a different name, please post up. Dec 8, 2009
EB
Winona
EB   Winona
Nice, there are a number of classic mini routes; that is routes that are definately in the great and greatly missed Bachar zone 2-3. There is one that definately deserves more attention, the Best Bulge 5.12, put up by Eric Z in between horse rampart and squirrel tower(?). Steep and cool! Keep up the hunting and keep gettin' after it boys! Jul 9, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Jay Knower was calling it "The Dick" last weekend.

And yeah it was used for CMC aid practice. Jul 9, 2009
Has this area been named before? I named it after Vinny's clay hold company for shameless promotion.
There are two rusty bolts sans hangers and one rusty piton near the bottom but they look like they were for aid practice. Jul 9, 2009

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