Sa Gubia Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.694, 2.673 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||6,546 total · 62/month|
|Shared By:||Anthony Baraff on Jul 6, 2009|
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DescriptionSa Gubia is home to more than 100 single and multi-pitch sport routes along with several single and multi-pitch trad routes. Ratings vary from easy 5.7 and 5.8 to staggeringly difficult 5.13s with the bulk of routes clocking in at between 5.10 and 5.12. The approach to the crag is the longest and least obvious of the places we visited, but is doable in 45 minutes or so from car door to cliff.
According to locals, there are regular break-ins to cars. Do not leave anything of value in your car. Leave your car with the glove compartment open and any shade over the cargo area of your vehicle removed to show that there is nothing worth stealing.
Getting ThereFrom Palma drive North following signs to the town of Soller on MA-11. A few hundred yards after passing where MA-2010 splits off to Bunyola on your right, there is a large parking lot near a restaurant. Leave your car here, cross the street and walk back down the road in the direction you just came from. There is a small road that continues off almost perpendicular to MA-2010 that leads off past private residences to your right, follow this. After a few hundred yards the pavement will be replaced by a dirt road. After a quarter mile or so, there will be a house with stables on your left. Past the stables a dry creek bed crosses the dirt road. Turn right on the pebbly creek bed and follow it half a mile or more depending on which sub-area you plan on climbing at. There are frequent cairns to mark your way. The first left-hand forks will lead up to the Paret dels Coloms area, while right forks will lead to (from first to last) Sector Silicona, Sector Excalibur, Sector Isla Bonita, Sector Princesa, Sector Bomberos, Albahida and eventually Cara Oeste.
There is an alternate approach for Cara Oeste and Albahida, but I've never taken it. If anyone has and would like to submit directions, I'm happy to sign over control of this page or add their directions.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sa Gubia
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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