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The Point / Ramp Area

New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > Echo Canyon

Description

I'll venture that The Ramp Area seems to have two distinct tiers as follows.

Lower Tier: This includes Hummingbird route and The Ramp route. And so we could define this tier as including any route that starts from down in Echo Canyon such as the aforementioned two plus South Ridge, Power of Words, and Sid Vicious. These are typically accessed by starting at the top of Echo Canyon and hiking down the canyon via climbers' trails.

Upper Tier: This includes The Rudder, Sick Bird, 606, 505, and Runnel Runner. Likely, the shortest and cleanest way to access just these routes bypasses Echo Canyon altogether. Instead, from the junction of the La Luz Trail and The Crest Spur Trail, head up towards The Point, find the rap down Runnel Runner (see the below photo), rap, and then strike off to your route of interest. After the rap, Sick Bird, 606, and 505 all start just on the other side of the gully (west side). 

Sick Bird, 606, and 505 are bolted routes (with lowering carabiners) and small face holds on good rock. Each route is about 80 feet. Left to right: Sick Bird (harder 10 **), 606 (easier 10**), 505 (harder 9***). 606 and 505 share an anchor. The gully is not an incredibly stable belay area for these routes.

The Upper Tier routes can also be accessed by first climbing the routes listed in the Lower Tier although some advanced study of the terrain between the two tiers would probably be helpful in linking them up.

Hill's guide (3rd Ed.) shows a "3RD CLASS GULLY" which spans both the lower and upper tiers; see feature "H" on page 170 and marked location on page 187. From the bottom, the gully starts a little up Echo Canyon from The Ramp route; further up the gully separates Runnel Runner on gully-climber's right from Sick Bird, 606, and 505 on gully-climbers left. From here, the gully continues up to The Point and is the notorious exit gully for The Ramp Route and others. Hope that your party is the only one in this gully. Climbing Runnel Runner allows a departing party to avoid the top-most part of this gully.

It is a tempting thought to rap in, stash some refreshments in/around the upper part of the gully, scramble down to climb one of the Lower Tier routes, return to refreshments and climbing of the single-pitch Upper Tier routes, then boogie out via Runnel Runner. Just consider that it may not be wise to have more than one party in the gully.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 7
Hummingbird
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
The Ramp
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Runnel Runner
Trad, Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Virtual Huevos
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hummingbird
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
The Ramp
 48
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Runnel Runner
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport
Virtual Huevos
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approaching the base of The Ramp route
[Hide Photo] Approaching the base of The Ramp route
Sick Bird, 505, and 606 sport climbs across the gully from Runnel Rudder and above the ramp.
[Hide Photo] Sick Bird, 505, and 606 sport climbs across the gully from Runnel Rudder and above the ramp.
The Ramp as viewed from the top of Crackula
[Hide Photo] The Ramp as viewed from the top of Crackula
Another outstanding view of The Ramp Area, courtesy of Kristopher K!
[Hide Photo] Another outstanding view of The Ramp Area, courtesy of Kristopher K!
Morning sun on Sid Vicious and [[106789372]].  Sid Vicious is the line that most catches your eye.
[Hide Photo] Morning sun on Sid Vicious and The Ramp. Sid Vicious is the line that most catches your eye.
If you are coming into the area from above (from The Point), this is the scene a little above the rap down [[107909552]].  The way down to the rap anchors is just to the right of the trees on the left side of the photo.<br>
<br>
The namesake rudder formation is just visible on the right end of the ridge in the background.
[Hide Photo] If you are coming into the area from above (from The Point), this is the scene a little above the rap down Runnel Runner. The way down to the rap anchors is just to the right of the trees on the l…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill Lawry
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] We climbed The Ramp on The point today, then visited 606, 505 and Runnel Runner. Reaching these latter climbs is really pretty trivial after doing The Ramp route: continue the traverse to the NNE while trending slightly down into the exit gully; scramble up the gully for 30 yards or so. Sick Bird, 606, and 505 are the bolted lines on the left when facing up the gully; Runnel Runner is on the right. Jun 6, 2010
[Hide Comment] Like Bill mentioned, you can put together a great, moderate day in the Sandias by warming up on the Ramp, clipping bolts on the Rudder's well-protected sport routes, then cooling down on the way out on Runnel Runner. Jun 7, 2010
[Hide Comment] To rap down and do Hummingbird, is it one rapel to the gulley, then scramble down to the start? If anyone has beta about this, I'd appreciate it. Jul 1, 2010
[Hide Comment] Bill--thanks for the info. I did the route, and it is possible to rap down beginning w/ Rappel Runnel. Then hike/scramble down to the top out for The Ramp--there is a rappel station @ a tree. Two ropes are needed to get to the top of the 1st pitch of the Ramp: on the 5.8 variation/start of Sid Vicious, there are two bolts @ this ledge w/ webbing from which it is possible to rappel to the start of The Ramp, then scramble down to the start of Hummingbird. Thanks again for the beta. Jul 10, 2010
[Hide Comment] Two bolts at the start of Sid Vicious? I don't recall seeing these before...perchance, maybe the 2 two bolts that got us all into trouble with the Forest Service????? Jul 15, 2010
Bill Lawry
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] Orlando, the two bolts on the horizontal ledge have been there since at least June 2005, five years ago; that was the first time I was on The Ramp route and saw them. These are on the ~horizontal ledge just after the crux of the P2 5.8 variation. No need to take my word for it as I'm certain others have seen them between then and this year's bolting event of concern.

It's likely that The Ramp bolts Orlando brought into question will not be noticed by most who do the standard P2 of The Ramp.

Note: The "condition report" on the Sandia Mountains page was corrected a couple days ago as to the location of this year's bolting event of concern.

I will replicate here what I posted on the Sandia Mountains page: If it helps to keep us all on track regarding NMCRAG's current proposal effort, please feel free to shoot me a message via MP.com with your phone number should you feel a need to identify what is just rumor or have other concerns to express. Jul 16, 2010
[Hide Comment] There is at least one shiny new bolt at about head height, directly above the two bolt anchor that is on the sloping shelf. I didn't notice any other bolts, but I wasn't looking either. I had also never done the route, and did not know of the controversy. Jul 17, 2010
Bill Lawry
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] Perhaps there is yet some chance we can resolve this rumor about power-drilling on The Ramp route. Although I've neither installed a bolt nor seen one installed, I understand that hand-drilled holes often have greater asymmetry in the first drill-bit width or so in depth. I'll suggest that someone knowledgable in the practice - powered and by hand - remove the nut and hanger, have a look, perhaps even take pictures, correctly reinstall the hardware, and report back here.

Logically, it seems difficult to say that a hole was for sure power drilled - maybe someone was having a good day. On the other hand, perhaps that it was hand-drilled will be obvious? Jul 19, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] Honestly, with regards to the 2 bolts on the horizontal ledge and the one shinny one about head height above. The two on the ledge should be pulled and another added on the wall, you know, where an anchor should be. Not down where you will trip over the thing. Nov 27, 2012
Bill Lawry
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] "The two on the ledge should be pulled and another added on the wall"

absolutely Nov 28, 2012
[Hide Comment] The Runnel Runner rap is a good way to climb (Sick Bird, 606, 505). Rap into the gully with one 60m rope (keep left). Walk across the gully to the three bolted climbs (each about 80 feet). They are all good small holds face climbing on quite good rock. These climbs face east and are less fun if climbed in hot sunlight. Left to right: Sick Bird (harder 10 **), 606 (easier 10**), 505 (harder 9***). One can climb the easier route on the right and then TR the other routes with one anchor transfer (easy traverse to the left). Later walk across the gully again and climb Runnel Runner back to the first trees. Jul 21, 2014