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Routes in The Ramp Area

Hummingbird T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Runnel Runner T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Virtual Huevos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

I'll venture that The Ramp Area seems to have two distinct tiers as follows.

Lower Tier: This includes Hummingbird route and The Ramp route. And so we could define this tier as including any route that starts from down in Echo Canyon such as the aforementioned two plus South Ridge, Power of Words, and Sid Vicious. These are typically accessed by starting at the top of Echo Canyon and hiking down the canyon via climbers' trails.

Upper Tier: This includes The Rudder, Sick Bird, 606, 505, and Runnel Runner. Likely, the shortest and cleanest way to access just these routes bypasses Echo Canyon altogether. Instead, from the junction of the La Luz Trail and The Crest Spur Trail, head up towards The Point, find the rap down Runnel Runner (see the below photo), rap, and then strike off to your route of interest. After the rap, Sick Bird, 606, and 505 all start just on the other side of the gully (west side).


The Upper Tier routes can also be accessed by first climbing the routes listed in the Lower Tier although some advanced study of the terrain between the two tiers would probably be helpful in linking them up.

Hill's guide (3rd Ed.) shows a "3RD CLASS GULLY" which spans both the lower and upper tiers; see feature "H" on page 170 and marked location on page 187. From the bottom, the gully starts a little up Echo Canyon from The Ramp route; further up the gully separates Runnel Runner on gully-climber's right from Sick Bird, 606, and 505 on gully-climbers left. From here, the gully continues up to The Point and is the notorious exit gully for The Ramp Route and others. Hope that your party is the only one in this gully. Climbing Runnel Runner allows a departing party to avoid the top-most part of this gully.

It is a tempting thought to rap in, stash some refreshments in/around the upper part of the gully, scramble down to climb one of the Lower Tier routes, return to refreshments and climbing of the single-pitch Upper Tier routes, then boogie out via Runnel Runner. Just consider that it may not be wise to have more than one party in the gully.

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Ramp Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Ramp
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hummingbird
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Ramp 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Hummingbird 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
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The Runnel Runner rap is a good way to climb (Sick Bird, 606, 505). Rap into the gully with one 60m rope (keep left). Walk across the gully to the three bolted climbs (each about 80 feet). They are all good small holds face climbing on quite good rock. These climbs face east and are less fun if climbed in hot sunlight. Left to right: Sick Bird (harder 10 **), 606 (easier 10**), 505 (harder 9***). One can climb the easier route on the right and then TR the other routes with one anchor transfer (easy traverse to the left). Later walk across the gully again and climb Runnel Runner back to the first trees. Jul 21, 2014
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
"The two on the ledge should be pulled and another added on the wall"

absolutely Nov 28, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Honestly, with regards to the 2 bolts on the horizontal ledge and the one shinny one about head height above. The two on the ledge should be pulled and another added on the wall, you know, where an anchor should be. Not down where you will trip over the thing. Nov 27, 2012
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Perhaps there is yet some chance we can resolve this rumor about power-drilling on The Ramp route. Although I've neither installed a bolt nor seen one installed, I understand that hand-drilled holes often have greater asymmetry in the first drill-bit width or so in depth. I'll suggest that someone knowledgable in the practice - powered and by hand - remove the nut and hanger, have a look, perhaps even take pictures, correctly reinstall the hardware, and report back here.

Logically, it seems difficult to say that a hole was for sure power drilled - maybe someone was having a good day. On the other hand, perhaps that it was hand-drilled will be obvious? Jul 19, 2010
There is at least one shiny new bolt at about head height, directly above the two bolt anchor that is on the sloping shelf. I didn't notice any other bolts, but I wasn't looking either. I had also never done the route, and did not know of the controversy. Jul 17, 2010
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Orlando, the two bolts on the horizontal ledge have been there since at least June 2005, five years ago; that was the first time I was on The Ramp route and saw them. These are on the ~horizontal ledge just after the crux of the P2 5.8 variation. No need to take my word for it as I'm certain others have seen them between then and this year's bolting event of concern.

It's likely that The Ramp bolts Orlando brought into question will not be noticed by most who do the standard P2 of The Ramp.

Note: The "condition report" on the Sandia Mountains page was corrected a couple days ago as to the location of this year's bolting event of concern.

I will replicate here what I posted on the Sandia Mountains page: If it helps to keep us all on track regarding NMCRAG's current proposal effort, please feel free to shoot me a message via MP.com with your phone number should you feel a need to identify what is just rumor or have other concerns to express. Jul 16, 2010
Orlando  
Two bolts at the start of Sid Vicious? I don't recall seeing these before...perchance, maybe the 2 two bolts that got us all into trouble with the Forest Service????? Jul 15, 2010
ekamm  
Bill--thanks for the info. I did the route, and it is possible to rap down beginning w/ Rappel Runnel. Then hike/scramble down to the top out for The Ramp--there is a rappel station @ a tree. Two ropes are needed to get to the top of the 1st pitch of the Ramp: on the 5.8 variation/start of Sid Vicious, there are two bolts @ this ledge w/ webbing from which it is possible to rappel to the start of The Ramp, then scramble down to the start of Hummingbird. Thanks again for the beta. Jul 10, 2010
ekamm  
To rap down and do Hummingbird, is it one rapel to the gulley, then scramble down to the start? If anyone has beta about this, I'd appreciate it. Jul 1, 2010
Orlando  
Like Bill mentioned, you can put together a great, moderate day in the Sandias by warming up on the Ramp, clipping bolts on the Rudder's well-protected sport routes, then cooling down on the way out on Runnel Runner. Jun 7, 2010
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
We climbed The Ramp on The point today, then visited 606, 505 and Runnel Runner. Reaching these latter climbs is really pretty trivial after doing The Ramp route: continue the traverse to the NNE while trending slightly down into the exit gully; scramble up the gully for 30 yards or so. Sick Bird, 606, and 505 are the bolted lines on the left when facing up the gully; Runnel Runner is on the right. Jun 6, 2010

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