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Choss Garden

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon

Description

A good cliff with better rock and routes than the name suggests.

Stays in the shade till 2pm

Getting There

Drive 1.6 miles up from the Storm Mountain Picnic Area you'll see a steep wall (The Choss Garden) up in a gulley on the north side of the road. There's a house on the south side of the road. Park on the shoulder just up canyon from the house and enter the gulley where you'll run into the talus slope. 15 minutes approach.

At the top of the main talus slope stay to the left. Head up the rocky/pruned trail another 5 mins till level with the first routes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 2
Black Dynamite
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Pitbulls on Crack
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
The Bridge to Total Freedom
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Mellow Gold
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 29
The Benefactor
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Up in Arms
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 55
Daisy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Touchy Tuco
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 29
Touchy Subject
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Tuco's Nettle
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 28
Nettle
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
The Gardener
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Beata
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 58
Depth of Field
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 28
Garden Party
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Dynamite
 2
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Pitbulls on Crack
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Bridge to Total Freedom
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mellow Gold
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Benefactor
 29
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Up in Arms
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Daisy
 55
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Touchy Tuco
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Touchy Subject
 29
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Tuco's Nettle
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Nettle
 28
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Gardener
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Beata
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Depth of Field
 58
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Garden Party
 28
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo June 2012
[Hide Photo] Topo June 2012
I might be stupid, but there are about 12 gullies past the black fence, and its hard to identify which one is the right one. Here is the correct entrance. Look for the 2 big rocks, and the house across the street has an address of 6041
[Hide Photo] I might be stupid, but there are about 12 gullies past the black fence, and its hard to identify which one is the right one. Here is the correct entrance. Look for the 2 big rocks, and the house ac…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] anyone have any info on the fixed routes ? Oct 15, 2011
Kip H
Farmington, utah
[Hide Comment] As you start up the trail go left and not right like we did. Aug 11, 2012
Justin Roth
Ventura, CA
[Hide Comment] CAUTION, SKETCHY BOLT ON 12d, FAR LEFT SIDE OF CHOSS GARDEN

On the 5.12d on the far LEFT side of the crag, the 3rd bolt had a small block / hold next to it with a chalk "X" on it. Seemed suspicious so we wiggled it and it came of, revealing a very questionable bolt placement with what looks to be small stress fractures in the surrounding stone.

Would recommend avoiding this bolt. Needs to be moved to more solid territory. Hard to say how solid it is, really, but a visual inspection does not inspire confidence.


Jun 7, 2013
[Hide Comment] Had a nice afternoon of climbing at the Choss Garden. Mid 40's, sunny and Fun routes. But many of the belay anchors and the fixed chains? left me wondering... Is it really that hard to set up a route with decent hardware that makes sense? Jan 27, 2014
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
[Hide Comment] Directions indicate to drive 1.6 miles up canyon from Storm Mountain picnic area - following these directions puts you at the base of the s-curves and Mill-B trailhead.

Rather, from the intersection at the mouth of the canyon drive 3.8 miles up canyon and park in a pull-off on the north side of the road.

goo.gl/maps/2IN8B

On the south end of the pull-off you'll notice a faint trail heading up scree into a gully, follow this trail up to the easily noticeable crag. Mar 25, 2014
[Hide Comment] The Directions are wrong in both the guidebook and on this page. Drive 1 mile past the Storm Mountain picnic area. Park on North side of road across from private house. Head up rocky gully and traverse right when level with wall.

As mentioned before, the .12d on far left has a bad bolt placement in poor rock and this route does not seem to get much action.

"The Benefactor" 5.12b now has a nice equalized 2 bolt anchor instead of the old slings around the tree.

There is a new route "Garden Party" 5.11a on the far right side of the wall. Sep 23, 2015
steve edwards
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] As the once-dubbed "mayor" of the crag, I'll weigh in a bit. I think this means you're the only one who climbs here, which was the case for a few years. I'll add bits for each route but, when we put the chains on, it was to facilitate climbing on the left side so that you didn't need to walk the ramp when other people were climbing. Not that they were too often.

In winter, this wall is hot. You can climb here, if it's not seeping, until temps are in the teens. Feb 5, 2016
Steve Miller
West Jordan
[Hide Comment] This wall is BCC best attempt at copying AF's bingo baby. Although it falls short of the beloved af wall it's likely the best wall in big.
Lots of fun 12s with great picture opportunities from the ramp. The approach sucks a little but not too bad. May 26, 2019
[Hide Comment] The SLCA's Anchor Maintenance Crew visited Choss Garden 5/16/22 - 5/18/22 and did a full scale maintenance and bolt replacement of the crag. All replaced anchors were with Stainless Steel Climb Tech Glue-in bolts / stainless steel chain and quicklinks. If you have any questions or comments, please reach out to anchors@saltlakeclimbers.org

Please donate to the effort at: saltlakeclimbers.org/

If you have any anchor observations you would like to submit, please fill out our anchor observation form at: saltlakeclimbers.org/fixed-… May 18, 2022
Fernando Cal
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] Bring a few hand size cams up to a #4 for the belayer Jul 18, 2022