Routes in Joe's Rock
|Broadway Joe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Cool Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Five Nine Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|It's All Buckets TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|It's a Bargin TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Larry Joe Bird T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Mother Superior TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Nine to Five (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|No Bargin TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Sister of Mercy TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Smokey Joe's Cafe TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Standard Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wave, The TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|GPS:||42.027, -71.405 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||chris21 on Jun 9, 2009|
|Admins:||Joe M., Old Timer|
Getting weather forecast...
DescriptionThis is a small cliff (about 60 feet high) off of Route 121 in Wrentham, MA at the Joe's Rock Conservation area.
The rock is rather crumbly (I've had a couple large holds break off in my hand), and the ground is covered with broken glass and other debris.
It is only open dawn till dusk, and it is monitored by police (most of whom are courteous to climbers) because of past incidents with partiers.
There used to be quite a few bolted routes here, but most of them were chopped. There are still 2 bolted lines, one at the right end and one more towards the middle of the cliff. You can set up toprope anchors above just about anywhere on the cliff though sometimes pretty far back (as much as 40 feet), and routes can be as hard as 5.12.
I've also done some bouldering on the shorter parts of the cliff.
Getting ThereFrom I-495, take route 1A towards Wrentham Center (nearly all the way to Providence from Boston) turn left on to 121, Joe's Rock Conservation Area is a couple miles up on the right. If you enter Cumberland, RI, you went too far.
Once you park, then walk down the trail towards the pond turn right. Then when the trail splits, go left as this will bring you to the base of the cliff, about 500 feet from the parking lot.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season