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Routes in Joe's Rock

Broadway Joe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cool Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Five Nine Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's All Buckets TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It's a Bargin TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Larry Joe Bird T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mother Superior TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nine to Five (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
No Bargin TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sister of Mercy TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokey Joe's Cafe TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave, The TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Elevation: 325 ft
GPS: 42.027, -71.405 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: chris21 on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer
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Description

This is a small cliff (about 60 feet high) off of Route 121 in Wrentham, MA at the Joe's Rock Conservation area.

The rock is rather crumbly (I've had a couple large holds break off in my hand), and the ground is covered with broken glass and other debris.

It is only open dawn till dusk, and it is monitored by police (most of whom are courteous to climbers) because of past incidents with partiers.

There used to be quite a few bolted routes here, but most of them were chopped. There are still 2 bolted lines, one at the right end and one more towards the middle of the cliff. You can set up toprope anchors above just about anywhere on the cliff though sometimes pretty far back (as much as 40 feet), and routes can be as hard as 5.12.

I've also done some bouldering on the shorter parts of the cliff.

Getting There

From I-495, take route 1A towards Wrentham Center (nearly all the way to Providence from Boston) turn left on to 121, Joe's Rock Conservation Area is a couple miles up on the right. If you enter Cumberland, RI, you went too far.

Once you park, then walk down the trail towards the pond turn right. Then when the trail splits, go left as this will bring you to the base of the cliff, about 500 feet from the parking lot.

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This place was a bolted chosspile at best when it was equipped. I led all the routes there when it was possible, and even rapped the lines to the right of the 12 and never felt compelled to come back. The rock is hallow and would not be safe to put bolts in in the pink section. Plus routes would be contrived as there are easier exits.

Much higher quality routes can be found at Crow Hill, some at a very high standard 12c, 13a, 13r/x all trad. Dec 12, 2013
Joe M.    
I think there's potential for a low 5.13 route or two to the right of Mother Superior, but that would be about it. The rock quality is better than it first appears but isn't great. The local bouldering is of much higher quality.... Dec 9, 2013
crimper  
I've been eyeing a particular grad school program in Boston. I was looking for sport crags in the area and came across Joe's. Anyway, I wouldn't be starting school for another year and a half due to current commitments, so don't count on it/hold back with your own efforts. If I do move up there, I'd be more than willing to put money and time into rebolting if the quality of the routes and rock seem worth it.
How are Mother Superior and Sister of Mercy? Does this crag have more potential than the ~10 current routes? Dec 9, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
The bolts just disappeared in 2002. No known reason. Will you pay for the bolts and hangers to replace them? If so, let me know and I'll replace the bolts.

climbri.org/joes.htm Dec 7, 2013
crimper  
Does anyone know why the bolts were chopped? Were they just getting old? Was it poorly bolted in the first place? Was it a landowner or impact issue?

Has anyone considered rebolting? Dec 6, 2013
Joe M.    
Stuff like this does not help climbing access:

wrentham.patch.com/articles… Jan 3, 2013
Went to Joe's Rock to top rope. July 2011. As far as we saw, there were no bolts. We climbed about 4/5th down the left face. We climbed to the right of It's a Bargain on a no named route, I think, that is 5.7.

Joe's is tricky to set up top rope anchors. From the top, you can't see the base of the climb without someone down climbing. Even then, with the canopy of leaves being so thick, placement of anchors for the route you want is very tough and time consuming.

We used two 50 meter ropes. One for the man setting the anchors to tie into for safety. One 75 and one 50 foot static ropes for anchor building.

At the top of our route, the ground had a dense covering of pine needles, it looked like top ropes were not set up here since the dawn of time. So, I think it is many years since this route was top roped. There was zero chalk visible one left face. The right had some form bouldering.

It's a shame there are no bolts here any longer. Looks like the wall would not be great for trad. There are a ton of good looking climbs here with a lot of variety. The face has a crumbly look but it is actually pretty good. We did not encounter any loose rock. Jul 2, 2011
Keyan P
Brooklyn, NY
Keyan P   Brooklyn, NY
^Anyone know if anything has been rebolted? Apr 19, 2011
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
Does anyone know if these routes have been rebolted? Mar 8, 2011
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
See climbri.org for route descriptions for this crag. Sep 24, 2009

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