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Areas in Blackleaf Canyon

Main Wall - North Face 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Main Wall - West End 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 6,250 ft
GPS: 48.018, -112.713 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,637 total, 160/month
Shared By: grk10vq on May 31, 2009
Admins: grk10vq

Description

A less traveled and nearly virgin area with very tall limestone walls. The rock here tends to be mosty solid, but expect a lot of choss. The walls can range from 50 to 600 feet. Mulit-pitch and single pitches comprise the areas numerous walls. One of the better and most traveled, Blackleaf Canyon has been the first of several areas to see development. Found close to the Bynum reservoir, this is a sensitive environmental area with "tread lightly" ethics. Primative camping with a few fire rings can be found, along with a pit toilet near the canyon's entrance. Most lines require little to no approach.

The climbs are on the main vertical wall just left of the parking lot. There are several miles of rock walls on both sides of the canyon. There are also a good number of freestanding pillars to the left of the main wall. Expect an approach of about 5 to 10 minutes from the car.

The rock here is a chert limestone which seems to be dominated by edges, a few cracks, and small pockets. You'll find a wide variety of features like slabs, roofs, bulges, protectable cracks and dead-vertical faces. The rock quality varies dramatically so expect a number of loose holds and flaky rock on the less traveled lines, which seems to be most of them?

Bring about 10-12 draws, a handful of runners, a single rack (for a few of the lines), and a 60 or 70 meter rope. There is a lot of loose rock here and it travels a very far distance with it's sole purpose being to hit your head... a helmet should be considered mandatory.

Getting There

Get yourself to U.S. 287 aiming towards Choteau and head north to Bynum. Set the odometer and travel about 4.2 miles. Begin by making a left at Parketts Grocery store and look for the signs to Bynum Reservoir and Blackleaf Road #145. Travel on a solid gravel road until you pass the Bynum Reservoir turnoff on the left. Continue heading west on Blackleaf Road. At about 11.7 miles you will pass the Pollock Ranch Road on the left. Continue driving west/northwest on Blackleaf Road. At about 13.5 miles you will cross a cattle guard with signs marking your route. Follow the signs for Blackleaf Road and Blackleaf Wildlife Management Area. At about 16.1 miles go left at an intersection marked Blackleaf Canyon. You will cross Blackleaf Creek and eventually arrive at the trailhead at about 20 miles.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Blackleaf Canyon

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I'd love to give you a free beta sheet, it has about 30 routes on it. Drop me an email. I've had a hand in developing 90 percent of routes here. I love it but a 24 hour drive? I'm not sure unless your gonna hit up a bunch of areas on the way. Beware the Rock is sharp most can't climb three days straight. Hope I can help. Safe travels. Jul 29, 2016
I am considering taking a trip out to this area in the next two weeks. I would only be traveling to climb here, basically a destination trip. I would be traveling from California and I am trying to decide if it is worth the time and money.

Also as I have researched, the area is protected so there is very little information online. I found a handful of routes and ratings with little descriptions but wondering if anyone has more they are willing to share.

Thanks! Jul 19, 2016
As of 7/20/15 there are around 100 pitches in b leaf. The guide can be found at northern lights in bozo but it's not current. Feel free to ask me about beta I am working on a new free beta sheet but don't have one yet. For me the new routes are some of best. The rock is a bit sharp but the climbing is so varied it's worth it. For me rock quality is great but most ledges have a build up of loose stuff so be cautious. Have fun be safe keep crankin. Jun 23, 2015
rockiesobscure.com/boulderi…

My webguy is slowly adding to this new site and trying to enjoy the summer at the same time.
Lots of content still to come....
have a good summer! Jul 26, 2013
Mackenzie Moore
Missoula, MT
Mackenzie Moore   Missoula, MT
The last pitch of bodhisatva is contrived, runout at the top, and just plain bad. Would not recommend. Jul 1, 2013
Does anybody know where I can find a topo for the area? Jun 14, 2013
Josh Kornish
tufaclimbing.com
Josh Kornish   tufaclimbing.com
The approaches here are about 10 minutes.

This was an interesting area to visit with rock quality ranging from complete shit (climbing 101) to excellent (Home Boys, Bodh., etc.) I wouldn't go as far to say that this is a destination area but certainly worth a visit.

Very tight spaced bolts

HELMETS ARE A MUST!!!!!!! Expect to get hit with something. also the winds can be insane! Sep 3, 2012
Here is a helpful website:

libertypages.com/chris/rock…

Weird to navigate but provides some good info Aug 27, 2012
gordwah
colorado
gordwah   colorado
How many minutes is the approach to the walls? Jun 10, 2012
Stu, what is the season here? Got anymore photo's? Sep 27, 2010
Stu Ritchie
Denver
Stu Ritchie   Denver
Spend the time to do your homework before journeying to Blackleaf...you will be rewarded with excellent, long limestone classics. Aug 2, 2010

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