Elevation: 6,250 ft
GPS: 48.0184, -112.7131
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 58,765 total · 353/month
Shared By: GRK on May 31, 2009
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

Description

A less traveled and nearly virgin area with very tall limestone walls. The rock here tends to be mosty solid, but expect a lot of choss. The walls can range from 50 to 600 feet. Mulit-pitch and single pitches comprise the areas numerous walls. One of the better and most traveled, Blackleaf Canyon has been the first of several areas to see development. Found close to the Bynum reservoir, this is a sensitive environmental area with "tread lightly" ethics. Primative camping with a few fire rings can be found, along with a pit toilet near the canyon's entrance. Most lines require little to no approach.

The climbs are on the main vertical wall just left of the parking lot. There are several miles of rock walls on both sides of the canyon. There are also a good number of freestanding pillars to the left of the main wall. Expect an approach of about 5 to 10 minutes from the car.

The rock here is a chert limestone which seems to be dominated by edges, a few cracks, and small pockets. You'll find a wide variety of features like slabs, roofs, bulges, protectable cracks and dead-vertical faces. The rock quality varies dramatically so expect a number of loose holds and flaky rock on the less traveled lines, which seems to be most of them?

Bring about 10-12 draws, a handful of runners, a single rack (for a few of the lines), and a 60 or 70 meter rope. There is a lot of loose rock here and it travels a very far distance with it's sole purpose being to hit your head... a helmet should be considered mandatory.

Getting There

Get yourself to U.S. 287 aiming towards Choteau and head north to Bynum. Set the odometer and travel about 4.2 miles. Begin by making a left at Parketts Grocery store and look for the signs to Bynum Reservoir and Blackleaf Road #145. Travel on a solid gravel road until you pass the Bynum Reservoir turnoff on the left. Continue heading west on Blackleaf Road. At about 11.7 miles you will pass the Pollock Ranch Road on the left. Continue driving west/northwest on Blackleaf Road. At about 13.5 miles you will cross a cattle guard with signs marking your route. Follow the signs for Blackleaf Road and Blackleaf Wildlife Management Area. At about 16.1 miles go left at an intersection marked Blackleaf Canyon. You will cross Blackleaf Creek and eventually arrive at the trailhead at about 20 miles.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Blackleaf Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Pissing In the Wind
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Climbing 101 (aka 5-Easy)
Sport 5 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 5
Uplift
Trad, Sport 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Super 8
Sport 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Shotgun Wedding
Sport 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Blow Hard
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Shotgun Wedding
Sport 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Yuan Chi
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Root Canal
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Home Boys on Soy
Sport 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Drill'em Fill'em
Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Its Only Money
Sport 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Bodisattva
Sport 5 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Zen and the Art of Bolting
Sport 6 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 3
Bodhisattva
Sport 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pissing In the Wind Blow-Hard Wall
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Climbing 101 (aka 5-Easy) Main Wall - W End
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 5 pitches
Uplift Sun Wall
 5
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 6 pitches
Super 8 Birdhead Buttress
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 4 pitches
Shotgun Wedding Main Wall - W End
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 3 pitches
Blow Hard Blow-Hard Wall
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Shotgun Wedding Birdhead Buttress
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 3 pitches
Yuan Chi Enlightenment Wall
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Root Canal Dentist Area
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Home Boys on Soy Birdhead Buttress
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 6 pitches
Drill'em Fill'em Dentist Area
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Its Only Money Main Wall - W End
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 6 pitches
Bodisattva Main Wall - W End
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 5 pitches
Zen and the Art of Bolting Enlightenment Wall
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 6 pitches
Bodhisattva Enlightenment Wall
 3
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport 5 pitches
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