PRINT: Rock Climbing in J-Crack Slab Area, Lumpy Ridge

J-Crack Slab Area

Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Book

Access Issue: Closure Notice Details

cdn2.apstatic.com/forum/226…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 Details

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

This is a sub-section of the Book, including routes on the climbers right of the Book and surrounding areas, including some routes featured on large boulders below the J-Crack Slab. The title route, J-Crack, is perhaps one of the most popular and classic climbs on all of Lumpy Ridge. This area also features such amazing climbs as Thindependence (5.10c), Loose Ends (5.9) and Pear Buttress (5.8). The final route included in this area to the climbers left would be Monkey on a String (5.12). See the Pages Wall Area for routes further left on the Book.

Getting There

Hike as you would to the Book. Break right towards the base of the cliff. J-Crack looks just as it sounds- the area surrounding this climb is the J-Crack Slab. Several climbs also exist on large boulders below that include their own specific directions.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 4 ● Monkey on a String Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 13 ● Thinstone Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 26 ● Stretch Marks Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 61 ● Thindependence Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X 1 ● Unnamed 5.9 TR TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 619 ● Pear Buttress Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 287 ● Loose Ends Trad 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 64 ● Visual Aids Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 306 ● J-Crack Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 20 ● The Cavity Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 105 ● Femp Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● Fender Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R 3 ● Turn the Page Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 31 ● Endless Crack Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 2 ● Pizza Face Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 25 ● Mission Impossible Trad 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R 4 ● Mission Accomplished Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● The Adventures of B-Dog Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 11 ● Fascist Drill in the West Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R 1 ● Happy Camper Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 17 ● The Campground Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R 1 ● Alien Algorithm Trad, Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R 1 ● KOAlien Trad, Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 1 ● Weekend Warrior Sport, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 159 ● The Cave Exit Trad

● Monkey on a String

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

● Thinstone

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Stretch Marks

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Thindependence

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

● Unnamed 5.9 TR

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X TR

● Pear Buttress

619

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches

● Loose Ends

287

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches

● Visual Aids

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches

● J-Crack

306

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches

● The Cavity

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Femp

105

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches

● Fender

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches

● Turn the Page

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R Trad

● Endless Crack

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches

● Pizza Face

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches

● Mission Impossible

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches

● Mission Accomplished

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad, TR

● The Adventures of B-Dog

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad

● Fascist Drill in the West

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport

● Happy Camper

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad

● The Campground

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Alien Algorithm

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad, Sport

● KOAlien

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad, Sport

● Weekend Warrior

5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, TR

● The Cave Exit

159

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Book as divided on Mountain Project.

Central Book area.