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Areas in Pickledish

Backwash Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Beaver Dam Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Horizon Wall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Pickledish Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Practice Wall 4 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Shipwreck Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Spring Morning Wall 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
temp holding 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 1,374 ft
GPS: 43.771, -72.091 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Tim Waystrong on May 4, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

A variety of cliffs and boulders that still need to be developed. The rock consists of granite that can be sometimes a little crumbly because it has not been climbed much. This is very secluded with nice views of ponds and a small stream.

Every cliff at this area is toprope only as of right now but I would love if they could get bolted and I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one to think that
This area is now closed by the land owner Details

Getting There

If you can get to Canaan, NH you take Canaan St. Lake Rd. out past the lake go down the long hill when you come to the bottom keep going straight four about 20-30 minutes you will see a pond on your right with a house above it a little ways before the pond you will see a pull off either park there or drive up past the driveway to find two more little pull offs if those are full then drive five or so more minutes down the road to a ski area and park in their parking lot and walk up to the path you can't miss the path it's about 30 ft. left of the driveway

THIS IS A PRIVILEGE TO HAVE THIS CLIMBING AREA OPEN TO US JUST BE KIND AND RESPECTFUL TO IT

BE RESPECTFUL OF THIS LAND

TAKE OUT TRASH THAT YOU TOOK IN, IF YOU SEE ANY TRASH CARRY IT OUT ALSO

TREAT IT LIKE YOU WOULD TREAT ANY CLIMBING AREA

ALSO KEEP IN MIND IF BOTH PARKING SPOTS ARE TAKEN UP AND YOU DON'T WANT TO WALK THE LONG WAY TO THE CLIFFS WHAT EVER YOU DO DON'T PARK IN THE ROAD YOU COULD GET TOWED OR GET A TICKET OR MAKE THE OWNER PISSED AND SHUT US DOWN

THIS IS A SENSITIVE AREA SO IF YOU THINK THERE ARE A LOT OF PEOPLE THERE THAN TRY EARLIER THE NEXT DAY OR SOMETHING JUST WORK ON NOT HAVING HUGE GROUPS AND TONS OF PEOPLE UP THERE FOR SAKE OF KEEPING THE AREA OPEN TO CLIMBERS

27 Total Climbs

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Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
I've been out to Pickledish twice a week or so this spring, and just a word on parking. The police are actively patrolling the dirt road and stopping to interrogate anyone who looks like a climber due to the situation on the Holt's side of the skiway. Be very mindful of parking at the Skiway and walking up.

If anyone knows this area really well I have some questions and would love to pick your brain.

Thanks.
Jon May 16, 2017
Adding to the Pickledish access issue. Have spoken to a landowner within the past year, being a few times a year visitor to the crag, access is allowed, but. You might get a note and threaten access if you park on the road by the trailhead, just north of pond and stone driveway marker. Climbers are asked to park at the Dartmouth skiway and make the hike from there to the crags. Given the distance, a short mile, I drop off partners and ride a bike from the lot(I'm not lazy, it saves climbing time). Know that the Dartmouth Outing Club frequents the southern of the two crags, having permission. Bring a 30-50 foot length of rope to tie off trees back from the cliff edge for excellent top-roping. Protectable lead climbing if you have the yen. The obvious facey routes...top rope.
Short routes. Oct 23, 2016
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
There already is a writeup about this area, which can be found in Stewart Greens Rock Climbing New England guide(ISBN 1-56044-811-3, 2001). I have been climbing there since 2002 and have spoken with the land owner many times. His request about parking at the ski area and walking the one mile up to the trail head is a major request from him. He claims that if you are a climber and respect the surrounding area, the hike up will be no problem. What has happened in the past is climbers would park on the road, which is only a one lane dirt road. Doing so makes it hard for others to pass by. There is a spot by the telephone pole, off his land, where people can pull over, out of the way of traffic. Yet, this entices others to park along the road, which is his major complaint.

Another issue he has had in the past are larger groups come here to climb from out of the area, groups with a lot of new climbers or just an outing from some organization, who end up trashing the land. Keep in mind that his drinking water comes directly from the mountain and using the area as a toilet is not good ...

The Spring Morning Wall, the first to the right of the Beginners Wall (first wall you come to) lists the following climbs, left to right:

Far Left Area
1. Shallow Nose AKA One Wet Shoe 5.9
2. Between The Lines 5.11
3. Volume 2 AKA The Open Book 5.9+ (left) or 5.8 (right)
4. Shallow Book 5.7

Overhang Area
5. Easy Overhand 5.7 (left) 5.8+ (right)
6. Double Tier Overhang 5.8 to 5.10
7. Shredder 5.12

J-Crack Area
8. J-Crack 5.7+
9. J-Crack Direct 5.9-
10. J-Crack Face 5.10+ - 5.11

Pickledish Cliff (Loggers Ledge)
This area is a 300' 75 degree wall with a wide path at the base of the wall. There are many climbs that are easily top-roped and do not need bolting as suggested. The climbs rate from 5.3 to 5.7

Beaver Pond Slabs
There are many routes that can be top-roped on the low angle slab.

Stroker Cliff Area - above and right of the Beaver Pond Slabs

1. Bulge 5.9
2. Quartz Dike 5.6-5.8
3. Interordinate 5.10
4. Subordinate 5.11
5. Stroker 5.8+ - 5.9-
6. Smoker 5.10+
7. Joker 5.12
8. Short Face 5.10
9. Easy Steps 5.1-5.4
10. Overhangs 5.5-5.8

There are many other cliffs with potential, but the owner is reluctant to allow more development due to the disrespect from climbers in the past. Please, be respectful to the area by leaving no trace, respect the top-rope area and park at the ski area. The mile long walk up to the trail is no less than the walk to many other climbing area, and much easier to hike. If we show respect, the owner may allow more to be done in this secluded area. Jul 26, 2015
Hans LaCasse
Canaan, New Hampshire
Hans LaCasse   Canaan, New Hampshire
I climbed there twenty plus years ago know some of the local climbs. Nothing was ever put down in A book I am trying to get info from people, as I am now starting A guide book to the area. Spring mourning Wall, we used to lead a lot of these climbs! Also the big wall way up the hill across from holts on the right I stated scouting routes up there! Very blank and steep!! Go to Bear Pond Outdoor adventures on face book looking for all the info I can Get! Aug 1, 2014
edward pinskey
bethlehem NH
edward pinskey   bethlehem NH
is it just the pickledish wall thats closed or is everything kinda out of the question now iv hurd mixed things. id like to check out the spring morning wall but dont want to take the drive down there to be booted out. Apr 1, 2012
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
was climbing a month ago and i must say i love this spot.i met what i think was the land owner last year when a few of us were climbing and showed him that we wont be doing any damage up there and he seemed very happy to hear,still trying to get a feel of what cliff we were climbing but the whole area is awsome.theres a nice 40 foot crack (not J crack)with a bolt half way up that looks interesting Mar 11, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I second Tims statement, I wouldn't touch anything there in regards to bolts, either removing or adding. Just so we don't run the risk of pissing more people off. Oct 13, 2010
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
I would suggest not bolting at this place or doing anything but TR, Trad or Boulder here. We don't want to piss anyone off more than they already are if they are. Oct 12, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Patrick I still can't picture the climb with the bolt on it, maybe you could snag a picture of it? I agree that mini cliff does look rad, let me know what you guys put up on it, I will look forward to getting on something you put up! Oct 11, 2010
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
since this area has the no bolting policy i figured i would ask before i do it.does anyone object to pulling the old bolts out of this area Oct 11, 2010
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
the bolt im talking abbout is to the left of the trail from the road where theres a crack all the way up the climb.thanks for telling me about the bolt route on the mini cliff.and yes that is the cliff in the photo.it looks killer.i think a friend and I are gonna trad it.thanks matt for all your help man.to everyone else the area is closed but i have had no problems for a month,just be smart and dont be loud up there. Oct 10, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Is the wall with the bolt up the hill from The Beaver Dam Boulder? is it a new bolt or old bolt? I know up the hill there is a old bolted route but the one remaining bolt should not be trust, and around the corner from there, right where the ledge drops off there is a bolt up there but I am not sure what any of the routes on this wall are. Not sure where you would find the info...

For the mini wall is it the little cliff on the right side of this photo: mountainproject.com/v/new_h…

If so it might have been climbed before because people have been climbing these walls for about 30 years but it could get "rediscovered if not a true FA"

Patrick have you done any of the bouldering out here most of the route are fantastic, The Helm, Eskimo Roll, and Cornelia Maria are the three best boulder problems, I would suggest doing them! Oct 10, 2010
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
i was wondering if anyone knew what face has the lonely single bolt about 20 feet off the ground? and was also wondering if anyone has any idea if the Mini cliff where the beaver dam boulder is if it was been climbed or any routes have been placed there Oct 10, 2010
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
i am climbing this on sunday and was wondering is the whole area trad? Jun 22, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Did all Pickledish get closed or just the pickledish wall? I know the Pickledish wall is very close to the owners property and has been touch from time to time. As far as I know though the other walls havent been to restricted? May 21, 2010
I just heard from a reliable friend that this area had finally been closed to all access in just the past few days. Supposedly they've blocked the old paths and the only way in is to park at the Skiway, hike up the road and bushwack. I haven't confirmed this.

Very sad, as this is a lovely little crag where I did my first outdoor climbing. May 20, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Myself, Tim Armstrong (Tim Waystrong to The Proj world) and a few other climbing partners have been spending time out here bouldering and lately trad climbing. We are updating the database to the best of out ability and knowing this place has been climbed a lot in the past we don't want to step on anyone's toes.

With that said if anything on the site seems wrong or you have anymore information about the routes we have posted or have anything to add it would be wonderful.

There have been FA's claimed this is due to things that make us believe the line has not been climbed i.e. huge lose blocks that comes off or moves when touched or moss that is taking over the route and other factor which make it seem like routes haven't been climbed, but again if we are wrong please respectfully say something and we will update our posts. Apr 27, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I know Tim has already stressed this but I would also like to add my two cents.

Please respect this wonderful place by leaving no trace, respect the directions given although there is an easier way to get there please follow his directions or access may become an issue. Please do not bolt anything here, for we do not have permission from the land owner and we would like to keep this place open to climbing. Respect this place like it is a crag in you backyard, you wouldn't want people trashing it or breaking your rules. May 6, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
sounds like sweet spot tim :) ill check it out sometime :) May 5, 2009
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
There might be an access issue I'm not sure yet but just be careful if you are going to Pickledish Wall. May 5, 2009

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