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Anti-Atlas: Tafraoute

International > Africa > Morocco

Description

The area has many crags of excellent quartzite rock (north) and granite (south), all in the general region of the Tafraoute village. You can choose from well described single-pitch cragging venues, to alpine crags, to huge multi-pitch adventures on the crags overlooking the Ameln Valley.

Situated near the small town of Tafraoute about 100 miles south of the pleasant tourist town of Agadir (airport). There are several hotels in town some cheap and a four star hotel(Les Amandiers) that was the traditional home of southern anti-atlas climbing. Very friendly locals, however there are some that have learned to recognize climbers and can be aggressive. The climbing season is best in the fall and spring, with March being the prime season for good weather. There is a broad selection of both easy and difficult climbs, but the majority of the classic climbs are usually in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. The whole area of perhaps hundreds of crags is a trad climbers paradise and more so those who like doing first ascents. Most if not all the climbs were put up from the ground up on sight with a light rack and at times a couple of pitons were carried but rarely used. With the exception of some of the granite sport climbs south of town, bolts have not been used in this region. Early first ascenders were from the UK and would be considered veteran climbers, however as the popularity of the region has grown so has the diversity of the first ascentionists.

Getting There

Most people visiting Tafraout fly into Agadir and make the 3 hour drive to Tafraout via R105. This also gives you the advantage of passing by some of the eastern crags in the Jebel el Kest north on your way to the south side of the range.

Guidebooks for the Southern Anti-Atlas

Several older editions of guidebooks for the Southern Anti Atlas are available, but most recently Steve Broadbent and the Oxford Alpine Club have taken over publishing for this region. Guidebooks can be purchased directly from Climb-Tafraout.com with selections tailored to select books for the entire Anti-Atlas or specific guides for the granite climbing south of Tafraout.

Books that detail routes in the south of the range that are currently in print (as of 11/2018)
1. Climb Tafraout, Morocan Anti-Atlas, 2017. A select book for the entire range with 1500 routes described.
2. Climb Tafraout, Tafraout Granite, 2018. Specific guide to the granite crags south of town, including some bouldering circuits.
3. Climb Tafraout, 100 Classic Climbs, 2018. A select guide to 100 multipitch routes in the region.

There are several books that are out of print that can be found with information on climbing in the Southern Anti-Atlas
1. Pocket Guide Tafraout, Volume 1, 2014. A select book with details on quartzite and granite climbing along the southern range.
2. Tafraout, Rock climbing in Morocco's Anti-Atlas, 2013. A complete guide to the 2000 routes (at the time) in the anti-atlas north and south. Volume 1 focused on the south, Volume 2 focused on the north.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tafroute area villages
[Hide Photo] Tafroute area villages
The veteran team on this trip ...both from the States and the UK .Such teams assemble for new routing usually in March.Photo taken from the Hotel les Amandiers,Tafroute L to R Top Chris Bonington ,Andy Ross ,Claude Davies.Pete Turnbull,Jim Fothringham.Mike Hintz ,Mike Mortimer ,Ben Winteringham,Jim Howe,Derek Walker ,Paul Ross. Bottom row.. Tommie Howe,Marjorie Mortimer ,Joe Brown,Marian Winteringham, Joe (Morty) Smith.
[Hide Photo] The veteran team on this trip ...both from the States and the UK .Such teams assemble for new routing usually in March.Photo taken from the Hotel les Amandiers,Tafroute L to R Top Chris Bonington ,…
Perhaps the most famous of the rock faces in the Tafroute area "The Lions Face" above the small village of Assgaour.First ascended by Paul Ross and Les Brown in March 1995. The route over a 1000'at about 5.8+ takes a line up the center of the face.In the evening light the lions face is very prominent.
[Hide Photo] Perhaps the most famous of the rock faces in the Tafroute area "The Lions Face" above the small village of Assgaour.First ascended by Paul Ross and Les Brown in March 1995. The route over a 1000'at…
Joe Brown new routing.
[Hide Photo] Joe Brown new routing.
The line of the First Ascent of the  Lions Face  by Paul Ross and Les Brown   March 1996
[Hide Photo] The line of the First Ascent of the Lions Face by Paul Ross and Les Brown March 1996
Not Joe Bloggs ..but Joe Brown and Chris Bonington in the Hotel les Amandiers ..the nicest place to stay in Tafroute ...the only hotel with a bar !
[Hide Photo] Not Joe Bloggs ..but Joe Brown and Chris Bonington in the Hotel les Amandiers ..the nicest place to stay in Tafroute ...the only hotel with a bar !
With Chris on a new route above a remote village
[Hide Photo] With Chris on a new route above a remote village
Andy Ross on a FA high above the valley
[Hide Photo] Andy Ross on a FA high above the valley
This shop owner in Tafroute is a good source of in formation . Ask for Hussain
[Hide Photo] This shop owner in Tafroute is a good source of in formation . Ask for Hussain
Andy Ross . New routing in Morocco. Diamond Crag
[Hide Photo] Andy Ross . New routing in Morocco. Diamond Crag
Paul Ross on a first ascent of a granite slab ,not far from the Hotel les Amanmdiers. Photo Claude Davies
[Hide Photo] Paul Ross on a first ascent of a granite slab ,not far from the Hotel les Amanmdiers. Photo Claude Davies
The Guide book to the Moroccan Anti- Atlas ,by Claude Davies
[Hide Photo] The Guide book to the Moroccan Anti- Atlas ,by Claude Davies

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Further information about climbing in the Tafraoute area is available online at www.climb-tafraoute.com climb-tafraoute.com

A new guidebook 'Moroccan Anti-Atlas North', covering 55 crags and over 650 routes on the north side of Jebel el Kest is due for publication December 2010 (available on the link above) Oct 15, 2010
Emma Alsford
Cardiff Wales U.K
[Hide Comment] New definitive guidebook for the Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra north (an area about 40 minutes from Tafraoute) containing around 1,000 routes in 6 main areas now available (published September 2012) - see moroccorock.com Posting to USA is £10 so cost is £35-00 through this site and via paypal. Fantastic trad climbing from single pitch roadside cragging to multi-pitch mountain adventures. Still in its relative infancy and plenty of scope for new routing. The most up to date information available as it comes with a free and regularly updated supplement.
Hammer Finger 5.12a on the iconic Finger and Thumb pinnacles in the Samazar Valley
Oct 22, 2012