Elevation: 3,574 ft
GPS: 29.772, -8.969 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Apr 27, 2009
Admins: Eric Bluemn
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Description

The area has many crags of excellent quartzite rock (north) and granite (south). You can choose from well described single-pitch cragging venues, to alpine crags, to huge multi-pitch adventures on the crags overlooking the Ameln Valley.

Situated near the small town of Tafroute about 100 miles south of the pleasant tourist town of Agadir (airport). There are several hotels in town some cheap and a four star hotel(Les Amandiers) that was the traditional home of southern anti-atlas climbing. Very friendly locals, however there are some that have learned to recognize climbers and can be aggressive. The climbing season is best in the fall and spring, with March being the prime season for good weather. There is a broad selection of both easy and difficult climbs, but the majority of the classic climbs are usually in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. The whole area of perhaps hundreds of crags is a trad climbers paradise and more so those who like doing first ascents. Most if not all the climbs were put up from the ground up on sight with a light rack and at times a couple of pitons were carried but rarely used. With the exception of some of the granite sport climbs south of town, bolts have not been used in this region. Early first ascenders were from the UK and would be considered veteran climbers, however as the popularity of the region has grown so has the diversity of the first ascentionists.

Getting There

Most people visiting Tafraout fly into Agadir and make the 3 hour drive to Tafraout via R105. This also gives you the advantage of passing by some of the eastern crags in the Jebel el Kest north on your way to the south side of the range.

Guidebooks for the Southern Anti-Atlas

Several older editions of guidebooks for the Southern Anti Atlas are available, but most recently Steve Broadbent and the Oxford Alpine Club have taken over publishing for this region. Guidebooks can be purchased directly from Climb-Tafraout.com with selections tailored to select books for the entire Anti-Atlas or specific guides for the granite climbing south of Tafraout.

Books that detail routes in the south of the range that are currently in print (as of 11/2018)
1. Climb Tafraout, Morocan Anti-Atlas, 2017. A select book for the entire range with 1500 routes described.
2. Climb Tafraout, Tafraout Granite, 2018. Specific guide to the granite crags south of town, including some bouldering circuits.
3. Climb Tafraout, 100 Classic Climbs, 2018. A select guide to 100 multipitch routes in the region.

There are several books that are out of print that can be found with information on climbing in the Southern Anti-Atlas
1. Pocket Guide Tafraout, Volume 1, 2014. A select book with details on quartzite and granite climbing along the southern range.
2. Tafraout, Rock climbing in Morocco's Anti-Atlas, 2013. A complete guide to the 2000 routes (at the time) in the anti-atlas north and south. Volume 1 focused on the south, Volume 2 focused on the north.

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Further information about climbing in the Tafraoute area is available online at www.climb-tafraoute.com

A new guidebook 'Moroccan Anti-Atlas North', covering 55 crags and over 650 routes on the north side of Jebel el Kest is due for publication December 2010 (available on the link above) Oct 15, 2010
Emma Alsford
Cardiff Wales U.K
Emma Alsford   Cardiff Wales U.K
New definitive guidebook for the Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra north (an area about 40 minutes from Tafraoute) containing around 1,000 routes in 6 main areas now available (published September 2012) - seemoroccorock.com Posting to USA is £10 so cost is £35-00 through this site and via paypal. Fantastic trad climbing from single pitch roadside cragging to multi-pitch mountain adventures. Still in its relative infancy and plenty of scope for new routing. The most up to date information available as it comes with a free and regularly updated supplement.
Oct 22, 2012