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Elevation: 883 ft 269 m
GPS: 44.08695, -71.2476
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 52,428 total · 284/month
Shared By: Sam Heidenreich on Mar 27, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

Nice single pitch climbing in the sun. If you have read the guide-book you wouldn't think this area is worth the visit, but recent years have seen many new routes; many of them bolted sport climbs.

For best information see neclimbs.com and read Ed Webster's book.
Edit - Handren's new (2012) North Conway guide is more up to date.

Getting There Suggest change

Park across the street from Attitash's Bear Peak in the lot for Thorne Pond. Hike around the pond counter-clockwise and continue on to the Saco River. The flooding in Oct 2017 has AGAIN changed the river.  Now the best crossing is to follow a trail downstream about 75 yds and cross the first half of the river onto the lower part of a gravel island with uprooted trees; then continue straight through the 2nd half of the river.  Once across, look for flagging and the (steep) trail to the cliff.

 Be cautious when crossing the river, during high water this may be impossible to do safely. Hurricane Irene eroded the 'north' bank of the river and also channelized the river, so it is now best to cross higher than shown in the current guidebook,

34 Total Climbs

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Location: Attitash Crag Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Attitash Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 5
Washed Up Hippie With A Handgun
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Reach for the Sky
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Alice's Ballroom
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
Golden Slippers
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Moonriver
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 37
How Green Was My Valley
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 27
Dukes of Hazard aka Three Gems
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Menethesis
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Goldrush
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
A Bolt Too Far
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Trepidation
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Contentment
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
The Flying Jib
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Life of Brian
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Thin Line
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Washed Up Hippie With A Han… Main Area
 5
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad
Reach for the Sky Main Area
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Alice's Ballroom Main Area
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Golden Slippers Main Area
 38
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Moonriver Main Area
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
How Green Was My Valley Main Area
 37
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Dukes of Hazard aka Three Gems Main Area
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Menethesis Main Area
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Goldrush Atta-scrap Wall
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
A Bolt Too Far Main Area
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Trepidation Main Area
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Contentment Main Area
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Flying Jib Main Area
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Life of Brian Main Area
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Thin Line Main Area
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Attitash Crag »

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