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Areas in Attitash Crag

Atta-scrap Wall, The 5 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Main Area, The 7 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Elevation: 883 ft
GPS: 44.087, -71.248 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 15,653 total, 148/month
Shared By: Sam Heidenreich on Mar 27, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

Nice single pitch climbing in the sun. If you have read the guide-book you wouldn't think this area is worth the visit, but recent years have seen many new routes; many of them bolted sport climbs.

For best information see neclimbs.com and read Ed Webster's book.
Edit - Handren's new (2012) North Conway guide is more up to date.

Getting There

Park across the street from Attitash's Bear Peak in the lot for Thorne Pond. Hike around the pond and continue on to the Saco River. Wade across the river and then up the hill to the clearly visible cliff. Be cautious when crossing the river, during high water this may be impossible to do safely. Hurricane Irene eroded the 'north' bank of the river and also channelized the river, so it is now best to cross higher than shown in the current guidebook, [see photo "Saco Crossing" 5-28-2016]

From the parking lot take the trail to the pond, then take the trail that branches LEFT in the open area (i.e. continue 'leftward' around the pond) then take a RIGHT to the river; cross just about where the trail hits the river. It is gravelly and shallow here. Look for two tall pine trees on the opposite side. Once across, look for orange tape that brings you back to the old path to the cliff.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Attitash Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
I agree with Dan that the downstream/original crossing is a much better approach. On a hot day it's great that you can take a dip before and after climbing. Jul 6, 2016
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
Crossing upstream to the 'trail' with orange tape is way more tedious than the original crossing. I went up the new upstream way and came down the original downstream trail, and both the trail and the river crossing were much faster and easier the original / downstream way (to the tree painted red). The water was deeper the original way (almost to my waist) than the new upstream crossing, but a gentler current. This was on July 3 2016. There was also a large fallen tree in the river that obscures the trail a bit, but just go 15' or so downstream, and it's fine.

If you're walking along the river bank looking for the trail on the opposite side, starting from the upstream location, look for the giant boulder / rock face, and the trail with the red painted tree will be a little downstream of that.

I'll post a photo when I have a chance. Jul 5, 2016
From your original description I thought maybe you were talking about Alice's ballroom or Reach for the Sky. Your updated description also suggests one of these. Perhaps Reach for the Sky? This goes up a slab to a steeper section intercut with many small horizontal ledges (lots of mantling). The climbing is not hard but I could imagine the wrong fall breaking an ankle. It's directly right of a large ramp and the upper part especially might be considered a diehedral. There is a picture on the route page you could look at. It is all bolted and there is little opportunity or need for gear.

At the right end of the main cliff (just right of the above climbs) there are actually two bolted climbs (really mixed routes). Trepidation is furtherest to the right. Bolt to a crack to slab with two bolts. You would have almost definitely placed gear in the vertical crack. Left of that is Contentment (10b-- not on MP but in the Handren guide). This has a nice looking left facing flake (hands or fingers sized) where you would have also likely put gear. The crack and the flake are substantial features of these climbs.

So if you placed gear in a substantial vertical crack or flake section then it may have been one of the mixed climbs. If not, then maybe one of the sport routes.

Both these areas are reached via short fixed rope sections (the face with thin line is way right and has more difficult fixed rope approach).

All confusing, I know!

Hope that helps!

Jim Jun 9, 2013
beach
Portland, ME
beach   Portland, ME
Hi Jim,

Thanks for the response. Here is an update to my location after consulting my belayer, apparently my memory isn't as good as his. We had to use both of the fixed ropes to get to our location. Apparently this line wasn't all the way to the right, there was one more bolted climb about 20 ft to the right that pulled a small roof, mainly face climbing. I think we were still on the main wall but I could be wrong. That would make this second to the right.

Thanks again for the responses, I have a lot of downtime recently haha so I'm hellbent on figuring this out. As for my old post I could be mistaken about said dihedral.... I know the route went left and then I stepped back across onto the ledge, clipped a bolt then started up the slab, past, my bolt, falling on my way to the anchors back onto the ledge.

Adam Jun 9, 2013
Sorry to hear about leg, dude. I understand your curiosity. Hair of the dog and such.

Thin Line is way to the right on the main band of Attitash. It is reached through a series of of roped catwalks that head up and then down to a smaller face. So it is sort of disconnected from the main cliff. Thin Line start right of a dirty wet chossy little groove. A hard bolt protected move (crux) down low pulls over the steep section onto a tricky slab with a crack and a couple more bolts. The slab is tricky but the crux is clear. There is a ledge before the last bolt and anchors but I remember being pretty comfy and the moves above being straightforward. I wouldn't describe it as a dihedral.

I definitely woudn't want to walk out of that area with broken leg. Youch.

You could try posting neclimbs or PMing Chris Graham for more (and better) info.

Good luck with your rehab!

Jim Jun 7, 2013
beach
Portland, ME
beach   Portland, ME
Hi everyone,

I recently took a lead fall onto a one foot ledge resulting in a broken ankle. I was between the last bolt and the anchors on a bolted climb on the far right side of attitash crag. I am wondering which route I was on. It seemed very straightforward until I got to the final section up a slabby ramp / dihedral. Any info would be great, I am more curious than anything at this point, I have been researching and I think the route was thin line. Seems like a fluke injury, I am definitely not blaming anyone but myself, considering I didn't know the exact grade/protection before getting on the climb.

Thanks,

Adam Beach Jun 5, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Thanks. Is it all right then if I break it into 2 sub areas for now and assign them to you so you can write them up as you get info and the time? We can always switch them to somebody else, move things around etc. later if need be. Jan 18, 2013
I think the sorting looks pretty good with just few exceptions:

1) The first five are located on the Atta-scrap wall, which is neither part of the main wall nor located to the left of the main wall. Exclusiva also looks to be part of the Atta-scrap wall but I am not quite sure where it goes. The correct sorting for the Atta-scrap wall looks to be as follows:

L-->R Freaker's Ball> Crash Course> Gold Rush> Hot Fortuna> Rum Diaries> Exclusiva[?]


2) The Thin LIne can be placed as the climb furthest to the right on the main area.

It's bit tricky to organize because the area doesn't get a ton of use, the main wall is a little broken up in places, and the whole area is currently under development.

Might be worth making Attascrap a sub-area for now. For the rest Handren's book is pretty up to date.

Jim Jan 18, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Chinos, Chris or anybody, if you want to write up a new description that includes the various walls and their placement, I can insert it in to the info Sam has. Also, could someone in the know double check the sorting? If the crag needs to be broken up into areas and somebody will write up descriptions, I can help move the routes out temporarily. Just let an Admin know. Jan 13, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Jim thanks for the input. I have not walked out to the cliff, I was just reading about it and it made it seem like the OW was a obvious natural feature that should be climbed and was curious. Thanks for the info, I might still give it a go if I get out that way. When I get out there and if I get on it I will share my experience. Thanks Jul 9, 2012
Matt,

Choo Choo seems to finish up that off-width for a few moves and you can trend into it at any point. If you haven't seen it, it isn't that wide and it's fairly low angle. I haven't climbed it but it would probably be pretty easy. With an occasional bit of scrapping you can also get standard size gear in the back of the crack (or maybe use the bolts on Choo Choo). Because of the angle of I don't think it would really climb like a true off-width though.

Jim Jul 9, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
HAs anybody climbed the Off-width the guidebook mentions? Jul 9, 2012
Kai Troester
Pepperell, MA
Kai Troester   Pepperell, MA
The map coordinates are: 44.08695,-71.2476

maps.google.com/maps?q=44.0… Aug 31, 2011
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Flying Jib and short circuit are good mixed and traditional climbs. Mar 27, 2009

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