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Routes in California Ridge

Access Denied T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ayatollah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Band Aids On Road Rash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
California Five-Eleven A S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Case Dismissed T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guilty As Charged S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mullah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 2,924 ft
GPS: 37.226, -122.099 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 15,173 total, 143/month
Shared By: Steve R. on Mar 26, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes


An offwidth, some face climbing and a few cool roofs make up the mixed sport/trad climbing of California Ridge. Possible to toprope routes as well. Off the beaten path and in the Western Addition area of Castle Rock State Park.

Routes are maybe 50' or so. Cool views of the ocean and Monterey Bay.

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Getting There

Same as Aron's description to get to Chew Tooth (thanks Aron):

Approach Time: 15 - 25 minutes.

From the parking lot:Head downhill on the Saratoga Gap trail about 1/4 of a mile,until the first left turn, which indicated with a sign that it'stowards Catle Rock (0.3 miles).

Head up this trail until you see a signpost stating "trail ahead "though there is also a smaller trail that leads right anddownhill. You should take the downhill trail. This will shortly run you into a narrow dirt road which will have several branchings off of it. The one straigt ahead is the one your want to take.

This will quickly split into 2 trails, which you want to take the right one. After a very short while, you will see the top of the Chew Tooth on your left 10 feet left of the trail.

Now that you're at Chew tooth, resist the urge to take the right fork of the trail but instead follow the trail straight and in a minute or so you will see the top of California Ridge ahead. It is on the right side of the trail as it makes a sharp left turn. You can set up a toprope or follow the trail around to the left of the formation

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at California Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Guilty As Charged
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Access Denied
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Five-Eleven A
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mullah 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Guilty As Charged 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Access Denied 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
California Five-Eleven A 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in California Ridge »

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Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
many (but not all) of the bolts at cal ridge were replaced with 6" or 8" SS glue-ins on 6/4/17. please do not TR off the rings, TR on your own gear. thanks! Jun 5, 2017
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2   San Francisco, CA
Yep... bolts/hangers to the far left and far right are sketchy. Hangers in the middle, to either side of the crack, are good (but spinning). Bolts are rusted button heads. But seem to be pretty solid. Mar 27, 2016
Anchor bolts to either side are looking questionable. The middle anchor bolts look newish and bomber. If you're gonna climb here take a good hard look at everything first. The anchors over the warmup (right) look especially bad; just don't. I've climbed on the ones to the left before about 2 years ago... not sure I would again. Jun 14, 2015

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