Elevation: 2,924 ft
GPS: 37.226, -122.099 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,427 total · 173/month
Shared By: Steve R. on Mar 26, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

An offwidth, some face climbing and a few cool roofs make up the mixed sport/trad climbing of California Ridge. Possible to toprope routes as well. Off the beaten path and in the Western Addition area of Castle Rock State Park.

Routes are maybe 50' or so. Cool views of the ocean and Monterey Bay.

Getting There

Same as Aron's description to get to Chew Tooth (thanks Aron):

Approach Time: 15 - 25 minutes.

From the parking lot:Head downhill on the Saratoga Gap trail about 1/4 of a mile,until the first left turn, which indicated with a sign that it'stowards Catle Rock (0.3 miles).

Head up this trail until you see a signpost stating "trail ahead "though there is also a smaller trail that leads right anddownhill. You should take the downhill trail. This will shortly run you into a narrow dirt road which will have several branchings off of it. The one straigt ahead is the one your want to take.

This will quickly split into 2 trails, which you want to take the right one. After a very short while, you will see the top of the Chew Tooth on your left 10 feet left of the trail.

Now that you're at Chew tooth, resist the urge to take the right fork of the trail but instead follow the trail straight and in a minute or so you will see the top of California Ridge ahead. It is on the right side of the trail as it makes a sharp left turn. You can set up a toprope or follow the trail around to the left of the formation

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at California Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 104
Mullah
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 41
Guilty As Charged
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Access Denied
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
California Five-Eleven A
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Ayatollah
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mullah
 104
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Guilty As Charged
 41
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Access Denied
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
California Five-Eleven A
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Ayatollah
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in California Ridge »

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Photos

fxct  
Anchor bolts to either side are looking questionable. The middle anchor bolts look newish and bomber. If you're gonna climb here take a good hard look at everything first. The anchors over the warmup (right) look especially bad; just don't. I've climbed on the ones to the left before about 2 years ago... not sure I would again. Jun 14, 2015
FourT6and2 ...
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2 ...   San Francisco, CA
Yep... bolts/hangers to the far left and far right are sketchy. Hangers in the middle, to either side of the crack, are good (but spinning). Bolts are rusted button heads. But seem to be pretty solid. Mar 27, 2016
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
many (but not all) of the bolts at cal ridge were replaced with 6" or 8" SS glue-ins on 6/4/17. edit 10/29/18 - most of the remaining old bolts were replaced with 6" or 8" SS glue-ins on 10/28/18. notable exceptions are the directional for 'cal roof' (not shown in jimi's guide) and the initial back-up bolt for 'california.' all anchors are now glue-ins. please do not TR off the rings, TR on your own gear. thanks! Jun 5, 2017