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Areas in The Boulders Below The Main Cliff

Good and Evil Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Hi Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Mallery Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Orange Arete Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Shipyard Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Unsorted problems 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Description

This is a large area running from Buffalo Rd. up to below the Main Cliff, between the small parking lot and the wooden stairs leading up to the Armed and Dangerous climbing area. This area is full of potential. Some of the rock here is sharp, having a lot of quartz and mica and vegetated, as it is buried in the trees, but there are also some high quality gems. It needs some care, attention and traffic. This area has potential for many great routes, ranging from highballs to cool powerful lowballs, with some excellent problems already established (not all are on The Proj so we need to get info on them). Get out there and find your dream problem.

Also there is a lot of bad fall potential here so please be careful so you don't get hurt...

Getting There

Go to the small parking lot. From the small parking lot walk in a little along the various cliff approach trails. Many of the boulders are right along the trail. For the ones higher up the hill, such as the Orange Arete boulder and above, it is best to approach from the Shipyard boulder, walking around it to the right and back, and then up. That way you will be walking on more rock and not the steep loose hillside that would quickly succumb to erosion with traffic. Avoid dropping off the main path and heading directly up the hill towards the Orange Arete. Take care when heading up the hill when the leaves are thick on the ground. There are lots of hidden rock crevasses to fall into.

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matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
yeah tons of potential also more off the path on the left Mar 25, 2009
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
Yes we need to go out there and set those routes man Mar 27, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I like the crusher one the best, but i was thinking aybe trying to bring into the name some history of rumney climbing or something specific about rumney climbing, something about the rock quality (schist) or something like that.

I was thinking maybe the "schist show boulders" but i not sure, i feel like this has to be the perfect name Mar 30, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I do know that there was a bolted route in these boulders that has since been chopped. If you are heading up toward New Wave/Orange Crush, take a look at the face of the big boulder on your right. You will see some bolt studs sticking out. Mar 30, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
yeah i noticed that walking up one time, do you have any info about this? Mar 30, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I love the new name for the area! Mar 30, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
thanks lee, i thought it was pretty good too Mar 30, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Lots of development has gone on here over the years, though it may not look like it now, but still much to do or rediscover. I cleaned and did a bunch of problems below the main cliff. You can find them by going to the big boulder with the high orange arete a little up the hillside, then pass under and around to the left. There is a nice overhanging wall on your rt if u scramble up that way, then a path with a few stone steps (edit-path partially buried from debris from the big Main Cliff avalanche now) will lead you further up and left to more boulder problems. There is lots of cool stuff here and I would be psyched to work on it with others. some are highballs or have rough landings, so good spotting and lots of pads would be helpful. Make sure you are quiet if you go there while the Main cliff is closed for the peregrines, as it is fairly nearby. Apr 1, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
MSprague - do you remember any of the route info and would lie to post it or do you want to just start from scratch? I would be down for getting out and redoing some older boulder problems and doing some new boulder problems. Apr 1, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I would have to refresh my memory. A friend was calling the upper boulders the internet boulders at the time and some of the names had to do with that. I will prob just have to rename them. - edit 5 years later - recently I couldn't figure out exactly what I had done years ago except for a couple lines, so I'm just going to re-clean stuff and do them over. Apr 1, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Cool I will do some work on this in the not too distant future, have some ideas already Jul 2, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Before we do more work recording this area and making maps etc., are you guys definitely set on the name for this? I get the humor of it, but honestly, the name is kind of meh to me for such a great bunch of boulders. Basically calling them a shit show seems kind of negative. Even the name The Shipyard, taken from the boulder next to the trail, seems more inviting. It is kind of like the area where everybody heads out from to go to all the crags and bouldering. Any ideas or does everybody else still like it? Oct 11, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
I agree that changing the name would be a good thing. Schist Show is the kind of the name that you regret giving to an area ten years later. Trust me, I've made those mistakes.

I've always been a fan of simpler names for areas, for instance something like the Parking Lot Boulders, etc. or something else related to this specific area. If the nautical theme sticks somewhat, then you could always call them something like The Harbor, etc. to play off that theme. Oct 15, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Mark I am all for changing it, I agree something more inviting sounds like a good idea. Parking Lot Boulders or something along that line will probably be best. I leave it up to you. Oct 23, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I'm glad to see this area getting some attention. There's a lot of rock up there, and it all seems pretty unexplored (or forgotten). It's strange that more people don't climb on these boulders, as the approach is perhaps the shortest in Rumney, outside the Pound. Maybe more info here will inspire people and revitalize the area.

I'm all for changing the name too. Dec 12, 2014

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