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Routes in Roadside Fin

East Face Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Face Left Side S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
South Face Right Side S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
West Face Middle (a.k.a. Black Canyon Simulator) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Face Right Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
west side left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 6,081 ft
GPS: 39.577, -107.214 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,514 total · 14/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This roadside fin of granite has a nice selection of climbs that allow for easy and quick access to some decent pitches. You'll find sport, trad, and mixed routes here along with climbs of varying quality.

Getting There

This is the fin of granitic rock immediately adjacent the interstate.

Routes Listed L>R:

A. West Face Middle, 5.10, 1p, 75', gear & bolts.
B. West Face Right Side, 5.8, 1p, 45', gear.
C. South Face Left Side, 5.10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. South Face Right Side, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. East Face Crack Variation, 5.9, 1p, 60', gear.
F. East Face Crack, 5.8, 1p, 60', gear.

7 Total Climbs

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Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
I don't know the beta on that line, but check the talus at the base. A bunch of that rock looked pretty bad, and I think one of the bolts is in a rock at the base now. I think Mike Yellico and crew put it up in the '90s.

Speaking of history, I know Michael Kennedy and crew climbed at this location back in the '70s and '80s as well. If you start poking around, you'll find ancient pins and 1/4" bolts from some of those early days.

From SplitterChoss.com by Michael Kennedy:

Nov 22, 2011
Nick Broeder
Glenwood Springs, CO
Nick Broeder   Glenwood Springs, CO
Does any one have any beta on the sport route on the northeast face closest to The Diamond?? Goes up arete to left small roof. Nov 20, 2011
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I spent most of the Summer of '83 living at the now gone West Glenwood Holiday Inn while working for one of the engineering firms involved with building the road. I spent my work days hanging from ropes with a geologist and a engineer whose job it was to make the roadside crags safe. We located the places that needed what are now those huge bolts in many of the walls. It was a great Summer. Anyhow, I climbed on this thing a number of times. One of my bosses was a Czech geologist who was also a good climber, so we had a lot of fun climbing on our days off. The only other person climbing in the canyon that Summer as far as I know was Kor who was typically really low key. Feb 11, 2011

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