Far Rock Rock Climbing
|GPS:||36.661, -105.983 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||2,887 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Wenker on Mar 23, 2009|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Far Rock is split into two formations by a gully known as the "Great Crevice". The "Great Crevice" is a flat, smooth dirt area between the two formations--it's a great little haunt.
There are two known routes on the west formation:
Tossin' and Flossin' (5.10c/d): A steep crack with a bouldery crux to fun face climbing.
Slammin' and Jammin' (5.10c): Easy, fun face climbing to a crux bulge and finger crack finish.
There are four routes on the east formation that are listed in the online guide are (from left to right):
Short N' Sweet (5.7): A short low angle face leads to a blocky finish. Didn't look too interesting.
Left or Right (5.8): Fun mix of crack and face.
Look Mom, No Friends (5.7): A sweet fist crack, but sadly too short.
Look Mom, Friends (5.8): We weren't able to confidently identify this climb. At the north end of the east wall, there's a couple of possible crack or face climbs. Where a dilapidated wooden fence leans against the wall, there's a fallen tree just a little farther north. Left of the fallen tree, there's a couple of jugs that may be this route, but looked too short to be a real climb (anyone know about this one?).
Days w Precip