Lower Buttress Rock Climbing
|GPS:||35.812, -106.2 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||1,018 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Mar 22, 2009|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Josh told me he climbed these with Rick Smith over 20 years ago, and that Rick bolted and FA'd them during a dark period of life and was seriously injured while putting them up. Be careful.
The 2-bolt anchor for Terraflop and Fatal Attraction is straight down the slope from Upper Tier's Route 12 (which is just right of the nose/buttress). This anchor is just far enough below the lip that it would be sketchy to get to without being on rappel. I'd recommend just rapping the Upper Tier with a single-rope fixed line, and keep on going until you find the anchors for these climbs. The Lower Buttress routes are about 150' tall, so you'll need 2 additional ropes or a pullcord to rap the Lower Buttress if you intend to lead the climbs.
Alternatively, to get to the cliff base, you could do the canyoneering descent down Pajarito Gorge, which has bolted anchors and at least a couple of rappels. I haven't done this, but it apparently has a 120' rappel (2 ropes or 1 70m?). This is probably more time consuming. Beta for the canyoneering descent
Days w Precip