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Lankin Dome

Wyoming > Sweetwater Rocks
Warning Access Issue: Sticky situation DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Close gates after passing through DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the high granite dome/peak seen to the north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap.
South side usually always sunny. Best climbing time in late spring/early Summer and Fall. Can be very, very windy. Incredible rock quality...granite. Wow. Very secluded, hour approach from any direction.

Getting There

Can go in through Lankin Gap, but this is closed in March-June for grazing. Can be very wet, 4WDish in spots.
I prefer to approach from Agate Flat Road to the west. This way is open year round, except of course when it's drifted in with snow. Did I forget to tell you about winter out here? As in driving to Prudhoe Bay in February? Anyway,this road heads north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap. Drive to the second cattle grate past the Sweetwater River bridge, turn right and drive up the fence line on a sandy track that goes out left after a few hundred feet, heading toward a gap between the hills. Go through a gate and across a little swamp. Drive east to the second "road" that goes right, usually very beaten down by cattle with a salt lick here. Wander out this scratch in the dirt, can be a bit on the 4WD edge. Go to a patch of trees at the base of the hill west of Lankin Dome above. This is Nolan Pocket. Park here. Hike up slabs and stuff to the gap below the descent route on the west side. Walk down the gulch paralleling the south face, something of a trail here. Keep going until you see the big crack system splitting the center of the south side (Tree Route). Probably don't need 4WD to get in, Ed and I have gotten around out there in his little Mazda just fine and the sound of sagebrush and small stones rubbing the bottom of the truck is actually rather soothing. But, high clearance is pretty nice.
Takes about 45 mins to 1 hour to get from the car to the Tree Route, or so it seems.

Routes from Left to Right

4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 3
Cowboy Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Sky Route
Trad 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 6
Star Jumper
Sport 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Heart of Stone
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Tree Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Red Nations
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
Mercury Rising
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Planet Earth
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Venus and Mars
Trad 4 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Crevasse Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Running Out of Blow
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cowboy Route
 3
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad
Sky Route
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
Star Jumper
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport 6 pitches
Heart of Stone
 1
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Tree Route
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Red Nations
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Mercury Rising
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Planet Earth
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Venus and Mars
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Crevasse Route
 2
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Running Out of Blow
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lankin Dome doing a 'Close Encounters' impersonation.
[Hide Photo] Lankin Dome doing a 'Close Encounters' impersonation.
 Looking west at Lankin Dome
[Hide Photo] Looking west at Lankin Dome
Lankin Dome, South Face, Dubble Routes: Sky Route= green. Heart of Stone = black. Red Nations = red. Planet Earth = blue. Venus and Mars = purple. Crevasse Route = yellow
[Hide Photo] Lankin Dome, South Face, Dubble Routes: Sky Route= green. Heart of Stone = black. Red Nations = red. Planet Earth = blue. Venus and Mars = purple. Crevasse Route = yellow
Pitch 1... dig out your car (while transfusing blood to the locals) after high centering in the soft sand.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1... dig out your car (while transfusing blood to the locals) after high centering in the soft sand.
Southside
[Hide Photo] Southside
This shot just doesnt do the 50+ mph gusts justice. Summit with Nadiak
[Hide Photo] This shot just doesnt do the 50+ mph gusts justice. Summit with Nadiak
Lankin Dome South Face topo
[Hide Photo] Lankin Dome South Face topo
Westside (can loop this sandy dirt road round the hole hog)
[Hide Photo] Westside (can loop this sandy dirt road round the hole hog)
South face Lankin Dome
[Hide Photo] South face Lankin Dome
Watch out for these critters!
[Hide Photo] Watch out for these critters!
Lankin Dome from the northeast.
[Hide Photo] Lankin Dome from the northeast.
This is the view of the front side (South) approach. It sucks.
[Hide Photo] This is the view of the front side (South) approach. It sucks.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Can anyone comment on the road conditions for the two ways to access the dome and what way would be the best this August with a awd without much clearance.

Willing to hike a longer distance as we will be driving a Mazda CX-5 that is pretty new and not willing to scratch it up or bottom out.
Jul 4, 2017