Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The New New Buffalo

Alchemist, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juaq's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tradtex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vortex S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Page Views: 1,527 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jfoley on Mar 8, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Getting weather forecast...

Description

A short compact basalt cliff with about 25 routes. Expect mostly sport climbs with a handful of trad cracks. A good warm up for The Solar Asylum, as it gets the sun earlier and has easier/shorter routes. Climbable all winter, plenty of afternoon sunshine. Morning shade in summer.

Getting There

This crag is located about 1/8 mile (5 min walk) West of the Solar Asylum (see the many approaches for The Asylum here on MP). The New Buffalo cliff can be seen above John's Wall to the East and can also be approached by scrambling up the left side of John's Wall and following a faint cairned trail that diagonals up and right (East), about 10 min. For up to date route descriptions,Guidebook & Guide service visit: climbingschoolusa.com/

4 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The New New Buffalo Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Jfoley  
There are just over 25 completed routes now at this little crag. 5.9-5.12a. All the Beta is not in print yet, but the routes are short, easy to spot and pretty straight forward. Feb 17, 2014
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage has more beta on this area:
climbingschoolusa.com/newro… May 18, 2012
Mike Howard    
Hip name. Great work Jay and Joel. Looking forward to getting the tour. Mar 8, 2009

More About The New New Buffalo

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within The New New Buffalo (3)

Most Popular · Newest