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Routes in Creel Crag

Climb 1 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climb 2 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb 3 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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GPS: 27.527, -107.759 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Mike on Feb 28, 2009
Admins: Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham
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Description

Creel is a small town in the Copper Canyon area of Mexico's Sierra Madre. It it a major stop on the 'El Chepe' train.

Tourism is a big part of the local economy, so a few years ago the town bolted a small crag in town. There are about 10 fun, well-bolted sport routes a short walk from any guesthouse or hotel. The routes are often equipped with rap anchors, but all are an easy walk-off. The rock is volcanic, and the climbing is pocket pulling on steep faces.

While the Creel Crag is probably not worth planning a climbing trip around, if you are in the area it makes for a fun day of climbing. Also, if new routes are your thing, there is a ton of potential for new routes & boulder problems all around town and in the entire copper canyon area.

I have not listed specific routes b/c I don't know enough info about names/ratings/fa party, etc... However, the routes I climbed seemed to be in the 5.7 thru 5.11- range. Supposedly there is a local that works at the hostel that can provide more info if you are in town.

Getting There

Many people access Creel by way of the 'El Chepe' train that travels between Chihuahua & Los Mochis. You can also get there by driving west on highway 16 from Chihuahua, then south on 25 to Creel.

From the main town square, take the main road (I think it is called Adolfo Lopez Mateos) south for 2 blocks, turn left (east) on Elfido Batista Rd (Calle Elfido Batista) and walk a few blocks to the end of the road. The crag is easily visible most of the way.

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GregL  
We were in Creel in March - it was chilly! The owner of the Posada del Creel is a great guy and can show you the spot. He bolted it himself (there are tons of bolts all over the wall - some top anchors, some bolted climbs). The main three are obvious bolted lines. He described them, from left to right, as "easy, harder," and "strong." I'd guess the first line is in the 5.6-5.7 range, the middle one is 5.8+, and the last is a stiff 5.10 (maybe 10b?). Bolts looked good, but honestly I wouldn't put major trust in them. Mar 3, 2012

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