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Routes in Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)

Devils Club, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
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Elevation: 8,509 ft
GPS: 48.948, -121.255 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,941 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Feb 24, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Hardest Mountain of the Lower 48?

The highest of the Mox Peaks was first climbed along the west ridge by Fred Beckey and his brother Helmy, June 21, 1941. Beckey called this: "...the most difficult climb we had ever done." On the dangerous descent Fred stepped on a piano sized block that cut loose and nearly took him with it. Of that he wrote: "In years of mountaineering this was perhaps my narrowest escape." (Fred Beckey, Challenge of the North Cascades, 1969)
called The Twin Spires by Fred and Helmy Beckey. Now called Mox Peaks. photo by Robert Gunning 1964
An old Mountaineers bulletin once ranked the biggest rock walls in the cascades. Mox Peak was listed as third (behind Index and Baring). Twenty-five pitches, just to the top of Tumelo, the sub-peak. Half Dome is twenty four.

In the lower forty-eight, the last time an alpine wall of this size and steepness had it's first ascent was in 1967: The Angel Wings, in the Sierras. Other American alpine walls of similar size were done many years ago too; Keeler Needle (1960), Mt Hooker (1965), Raid Peak (196?), Index (1951), The Diamond (1960), and Grand Teton's North Face (1953).

Approach

Please see the map on the Devil's Club page.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
 3
The Devils Club
Trad, Alpine 25 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Devils Club
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X Trad, Alpine 25 pitches
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