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A. The Gallery

Illinois > Jackson Falls > B. West Falls

Description

The area receives sun almost all day, and is one of the first areas to dry out after a rain. The climbs in this area are consistently good, although sometimes similar in nature. Check out the area classic, Group Therapy for a lesson in pump or battle one of the areas ubiquitous bulges just around the corner on Cut/Sore/Deep Throat. Try to avoid gear sprawl on the trail here, as this is a fairly high traffic area.

Getting There

Approach from the North Falls by either rappelling or downclimbing and keep the rock on your right. The Gallery begins after a low roof with a ledge underneath and continues around the corner.

Or descend the dog walk, walk up canyon to the lovely tower, then follow the trail left across the canyon directly to the gallery.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Lone Star
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Shock Therapy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Squirrel House Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 123
Group Therapy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 54
Psychotherapy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 83
Earthbound Misfit
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
Cut Throat
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Sore Throat
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Deep Throat
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 4
King's Jester
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
The Walrus
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Yuppie with a Gun
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
The Minstrel
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 3
Crybaby club
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lone Star
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Shock Therapy
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Squirrel House Crack
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Group Therapy
 123
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Psychotherapy
 54
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Earthbound Misfit
 83
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cut Throat
 37
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sore Throat
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Deep Throat
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
King's Jester
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, Sport
The Walrus
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Yuppie with a Gun
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Minstrel
 9
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Crybaby club
 3
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Might be a newer route not in the book? right side of The Gallery.
[Hide Photo] Might be a newer route not in the book? right side of The Gallery.
Shot of one side of the Gallery with Deep Throat and Cut Throat.  Feb. '09.
[Hide Photo] Shot of one side of the Gallery with Deep Throat and Cut Throat. Feb. '09.